Upgrading jazebelle

The system looks great...and you did an excellent job installing it! But I did shake my head at the use of the old hoop muffler clamps. :(

The clamps you mentioned look like a perfered way of doing it.
I checked around locally and didn't find them. Online perhaps but I was in borrowed shop space and didn't want to wait another couple days. Besides, I have no plans to need to unclamp anything.
 
My muffler clamp removal tool of choice for old exhausts...

pneumatic-chisel-hammer-6811.jpg


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The clamps you mentioned look like a perfered way of doing it.
I checked around locally and didn't find them. Online perhaps but I was in borrowed shop space and didn't want to wait another couple days. Besides, I have no plans to need to unclamp anything.

Fair enough....I still don't like those clamps....;) But with an H-Pipe you might need to remove the exhaust to get the tranny out...???
 
I learned the hard way that having a non removable H pipe you need to drop the exhaust system to pull the transmission. After that I had header flanges installed. Now 10 bolts and the pipes are dropped...
 
On my NYB, I simply went with a single exhaust using original hangers.
Looks right. Works right. No vibes. No interference.
No need for duals on a 76 Formal with a smogger engine.

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The system looks great Will, nicely done!
 
Wow, this looks very nice! I aspire to have duals on my 73 someday soon and ditch the original rusted system. Also like the trailer hitch.

The only question I have is why you went with clamps and not welding. I'd think the non-welded joints would be prone to leaks and corrosion with water getting in there (at least on the aluminized portion)? Could the H-pipe be placed where the original crossover was, so no interference with pulling the tranny?

I've been talking to a couple local (good) shops on a new dual system, made from scratch. I'd like to have OEM style mufflers - not sure if I can let them source them or have to buy them myself. Need to find or make hanger(s) too for the other side.

Thanks,
 
There was no crossover on the factory duals back then, were there? Somebody know for sure?
The crossover on the single exhaust had to dropped for a lot of work under there.
I understand the advantages of balancing the flow and canceling out non-harmonious pulses, etc. with an H or X pipe crossover but I don't do it because whether you can feel it on a C-body used for cruising? Maybe my *** is numb but I don't feel an *** in the seat difference. I think it is highly over rated and a PITA sometimes when working underneath.

Welding it one piece from the exhaust pipe to tail pipe, I think, presents the same problem when working underneath. The reason for so many shops welding everything up is because they are too lazy to swage for slip fit connections a/o they were never taught to do it that way.

The same holds true for hanging the system. A lot of the systems are improperly hung and most customers don't know how it should be hung so the shops get away with Micky Mouse fabbing.

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There was no crossover on the factory duals back then, were there? Somebody know for sure?
The crossover on the single exhaust had to dropped for a lot of work under there.
I understand the advantages of balancing the flow and canceling out non-harmonious pulses, etc. with an H or X pipe crossover but I don't do it because whether you can feel it on a C-body used for cruising? Maybe my *** is numb but I don't feel an *** in the seat difference. I think it is highly over rated and a PITA sometimes when working underneath.

Welding it one piece from the exhaust pipe to tail pipe, I think, presents the same problem when working underneath. The reason for so many shops welding everything up is because they are too lazy to swage for slip fit connections a/o they were never taught to do it that way.

The same holds true for hanging the system. A lot of the systems are improperly hung and most customers don't know how it should be hung so the shops get away with Micky Mouse fabbing.

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I don't believe any mopar came with a factory H-pipe. But if any did I'd say it would be the Max wedge, or Hemi, or 440/6bbl cars.

I once had to stop a guy from welding the joints on the new exhaust on my old Coronet convertible. He then proceeded to argue with me about it. I told him I'm paying for it, you do it the way I want it done!
 
Wow, this looks very nice! I aspire to have duals on my 73 someday soon and ditch the original rusted system. Also like the trailer hitch.

The only question I have is why you went with clamps and not welding. I'd think the non-welded joints would be prone to leaks and corrosion with water getting in there (at least on the aluminized portion)? Could the H-pipe be placed where the original crossover was, so no interference with pulling the tranny?
Thanks,

Like Stan said, if you ever need to work on something under the car, or remove a portion of the exhaust system, your screwed with a welded system. A clamp system will allow adjustments, and will better leach condensation, which will rust the system from the inside out if left.

I had a welded dual system installed on my 65 Coronet. I didn't like the mufflers and it was a real pain to change them. It also came loose a couple of times, once at the turkey run in Daytona. Good thing they had a repair shop available.

The "H" pipe was on the original dual system. There is a science to where it is located in the system so you really can't just put it where is convienant.
 
After installing the dual exhaust system things got much quitter and I detected a slight clicking sound in the right front of the engine area. She always had a slight rockerarm clatter on cold starts so I pulled a valve cover and discovered a slightly bent pushrod. So I replaced all the rockerarms on both sides with new, and a new pushrod. STILL, had a slight clicking going on.
I thought about the fuel pump push rod that Matt had issues with, I remembered curing the click with a new pushrod way back sometime.
I located a NOS original pushrod and decided to swap it out today..... Pulled the original out, and it was perfect. 120K miles and no wear evident. I put it back in and now everything is fine........ :eusa_think: :dontknow:
 
After installing the dual exhaust system things got much quitter and I detected a slight clicking sound in the right front of the engine area. She always had a slight rockerarm clatter on cold starts so I pulled a valve cover and discovered a slightly bent pushrod. So I replaced all the rockerarms on both sides with new, and a new pushrod. STILL, had a slight clicking going on.
I thought about the fuel pump push rod that Matt had issues with, I remembered curing the click with a new pushrod way back sometime.
I located a NOS original pushrod and decided to swap it out today..... Pulled the original out, and it was perfect. 120K miles and no wear evident. I put it back in and now everything is fine........ :eusa_think: :dontknow:

Could have been just a little gum build up in the bore, or on the pushrod, and removing it allowed the build up to fall away, or get scraped off.

Got to love those easy fixes. ;)
 
Ok... green here in that area. How difficult is it to change the fuel pump rod on a big block? We do all our own wrenching my Dad and I.
 
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