What to replace suspension (66 Fury).

Brakes, Suspension, Rims and Tires

  1. 66Fury383

    66Fury383 Member

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    Hello all,

    I am currently working on a front disc swap on my 66 Fury (86k Miles). My question is, are there any suspension part I should replace while I have all the brake components removed? I am on a tight budget, but I am a firm believer in spending upfront instead of later!

    Thanks,
    Cameron
     
  2. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Cameron has been picking my brain about the disc conversion - I've advised him to ask y'all about advice on other related components (ball joints etc), and where to best source quality replacements if needed.
     
  3. 66Fury383

    66Fury383 Member

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    Yes, Ross has been an amazing help. Outstanding member
     
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  4. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Replace the strut rod bushings and the upper and lower control arm bushings. This would also be a good time to replace the front shocks if the car needs them as you will need to remove them to do the bushings. You can check the ball joints using the procedure outlined in the FSM. If the ball joints check out ok, leave them in place as many of the replacement units are now made in China and are a POS. If you can find NOS Mopar bushings they are probably the best choice.

    Dave
     
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  5. 66Fury383

    66Fury383 Member

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    Thanks for the info Dave. Will look into this.
     
  6. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    If you can't afford NOS, P-S-T kits are around $250. With the brakes and spindles off, you're a step away from a computer suspension tear down (okay, a few steps). Now is the time to replace everything and be done. I put one on my car and it's fine. My steering and suspension are so much better than the rotted out crap that was on there before. That's for the budget minded.

    If you want original, NOS or some old Moog parts can be searched for. Both are more money. I know I have one car that will get NOS parts, the rest I'm fine with the P-S-T kits.

    I thought the Pro Tool suspension tools would work, they did, but the parts off my car were just big enough to get jammed in a couple. I made the lower control arm remover, bigger than I thought I'd need. I had 1/2" before the arm came out. I'm sure there are better methods, but that's my experience. Other than being a sloth, it went well and wasn't too difficult.
     
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  7. mobileparts

    mobileparts Active Member

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    I am pretty sure the p s t basic kits don't include
    "Everything"....
    I know they are a sponsor of the site -- so I won't bad mouth them -- and I have NO contact with them -- but I am pretty sure they don't come with tie rod sleeves and there may be more that is not included in their basic kit... I would 100 % believe they don't come with a Pitman Arm....
    And as we all know, it is "off shore" manufacture...
     
  8. mobileparts

    mobileparts Active Member

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    Ross (from Canada, eh??) Is a great guy to converse with --- he just has to (politically and delicately) tell his wife that He is the Man, and he is going to spend money on his ride whenever he doggone well pleases..
    C'MON Ross, whack her knees with a hockey stick when she dares to flex her muscles.
    (I hope I'm not going to get you killed, eh?!?!)
    Yours, Craig
     
  9. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I'm already dead Craig - she was looking over my shoulder when I viewed this thread. :lol::canada:
     
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  10. mobileparts

    mobileparts Active Member

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    Whoops!!! Sorry, Mrs. Ross... I was just having fun!!
    But remember this, when you lock your wife and your dog in the trunk of your car for 1/2 an hour, only one of them will lick you when you let them out!!!!!
    Long live doggies -- and "C" bodies with big giant trunks!!!!!
     
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  11. BigblueC

    BigblueC Well-Known Member

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    I just rebuilt my suspension using Rare Parts and Moog. I would have given Craig a call but I had already bought my parts by the time I saw him offering a complete "kit". If you decide to go the Rare parts/Moog way, start with Rare Parts and look at their part numbers. If it starts with RP it's made by them, anything MO or TW? is moog and trw parts that they charge a premium for and you can get at one of the parts store cheaper.

    At a minimum I would replace the lower ball joints, lower control arm bushings, strut rod bushings, and shocks. Everything else (upper control arm bushings and ball joints, steering linkages) can be replaced later fairly easily if you don't have the money right now.

    Hey @mobileparts , I see you offering some nice parts and was wondering do you take cards or is it all money order, paypal, etc.; basically how can I/we go about buying stuff from you when we call?
     
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  12. Ross Wooldridge

    Ross Wooldridge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I agree very much with BigBlue's advice especially on what he recommends you start with - lower ball joints, control arm and strut rod bushings and shocks plus the steering stuff.
     
  13. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Nope, but the sleeves, unless the car was off roaded, can be reused without issue. They should be fine unless they were damaged somehow.
     
  14. mobileparts

    mobileparts Active Member

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    I'll answer all of your questions, presently.....
    If you want to and can reuse your tie rod sleeves, you are welcome to -- that lowers the price of the overall kit. Then, of course, sometimes the sleeves kind of "weld themselves" to the tie rod, and just won't separate. Not to mention, sometimes the threads strip, through normal service ( or elongate, hence creating slop / play).
    You can operate in one of two ways -- have them in your kit -- and go new and fresh automatically -- or do your kit without them -- and then get them if you see you do need them, but then, of course, there is a second shipping involved... To each, his or her own call....
    I have quite a few, thankfully, because some of you may have heard of "A" and "B" and "E" body guys beefing up their front end with "C" body tie rods and sleeves -- and they of course, MUST grab the sleeves because they are a different / Bigger size.....
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 7, 2019
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  15. 66Fury383

    66Fury383 Member

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    Thanks Blue, that seems like the best course of action for me at this time. Money is tighter than a virgin on prom night!
     
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  16. 66Fury383

    66Fury383 Member

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    What all is included with that PST kit. I dont really want to spend all the money, but if a lot comes with it I may go that way.
     
  17. 66Fury383

    66Fury383 Member

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    Mobile, thanks for the comments. I will call you if I need anything.
     
  18. mobileparts

    mobileparts Active Member

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    Even if your money is tighter than ..... ,
    With my goodies your gonna be with the PROM
    QUEEN (your ride!!!!!) For the next 50 years!!!!!
    You only live once --- treat yourself and your PROM
    QUEEN to the best --- it is only once for life.
    (Far better than being married three times...,)
    Yours, Craig....
     
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  19. 66Fury383

    66Fury383 Member

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    Craig, you seem to have a way with words and a gambler's ambition. Must make you one hell of a salesman -- I know, I've done a bit of bartering myself.

    I respect the hustle and will entertain you a bit.

    Gimme a price range on a front suspension rebuild kit. (After all, it doesn't cost me a dime to ask!)
     
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  20. BigblueC

    BigblueC Well-Known Member

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    His prices seem right in line with any of the on-line parts stores. (< corrected because the brick-and-mortar stores were priced higher and I didn't buy anything from them) Taking my time and pricing everything out as best as I could I wound up with about $650-700 (including taxes/shipping) in my front suspension parts, but that doesn't include a pitman arm, idler arm, or sleeves as all of my original stuff was good.

    That $650-700 also doesn't include shocks, but neither does Craig's offering. If you replace everything that I have previously recommended, your looking at $350-400 plus taxes/shipping from the parts stores (assuming that you don't have to have factory disc brake lower ball joints), and that's not including what ever shock you choose. (I went with KYB from summit for $30 each. They're a little firm but hopefully they loosen up with a little driving)

    The lower control arm area isn't the place to cheap out as it's a lot more involved to replace those parts that I recommended. If you have to cut corners or go cheap, do it up top where things are easier to get to later.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2019
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