WANTED WTB this 66 300 , is it worth the price ?

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Not a fun repair, and it looks like they put a wrong piece of trim in there too - has someone else repaired this in the past?? If so, the repair just got a whole lot worser.
Yeah no fun. I'd hire someone to do it thought, might not be a cost I want to add though.

The owner says he or she is no mechanic and has not done work on the car
I'm going to give them a call tomorrow and get more info, then may or may not go to inspect the work
 
That was my first thought with the angles visible but it was just easier and guaranteed accurate to say it's not the correct piece. Either way, why was it off if not for repairs?
I think it was said the car was painted from white.
 
Sooooo the owner just sent me this picture, not sure how easy this is to fix?????????

I used to paint tugboats and this kind of rust was a pita, can I just get a welder to cut that out and weld on some sheet metal?

View attachment 204075
That type of rust shows through from an old repair done incorrectly. Basically, they stuffed it with Bondo and painted it. I would be concerned that the rest of the car has the same type of body rust and repair going on under the crappy paint job. It could be a nightmare.

Personally, I'd stay away from this one.
 
Hate to say it but yea, once it's clear that it's been "fixed up" at some point, if you are going to look at it, look CLOSELY. While I'm not one who'd say 3500 would bring you a car if this vintage with no problems whatsoever, a better starting point might only be a couple grand north of 3500.

Being that you were initially considering laying out 20,000 on tha 66, I think Somehwere in the middle would get you a more solid if not more honest example.
 
That type of rust shows through from an old repair done incorrectly. Basically, they stuffed it with Bondo and painted it. I would be concerned that the rest of the car has the same type of body rust and repair going on under the crappy paint job. It could be a nightmare.

Personally, I'd stay away from this one.

Yeah , but at this point how perfect of a car are we taking about ... this is already a rare car to begin with, I'm not on the east coast like most of you so at this point I need to get the best I can get.

I think if the car was repaired badly there would be other areas showing the same symptoms...

I think I'll be able to spot any bondoed areas , I have a good eye for that, no auto body Would fill up a bubble rust hole , so most likely someone amauetuer did it therefore an amateur Bondo job would be easily spotted.

I think my plan now is to offer a lower price somewhere in the 2k ball park, talk to the owner, check the car for mor sh1t jobs , Then get the rust fixed if its not too bad
 
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Hate to say it but yea, once it's clear that it's been "fixed up" at some point, if you are going to look at it, look CLOSELY. While I'm not one who'd say 3500 would bring you a car if this vintage with no problems whatsoever, a better starting point might only be a couple grand north of 3500.

Being that you were initially considering laying out 20,000 on tha 66, I think Somehwere in the middle would get you a more solid if not more honest example.

I get what you're saying, around 5-6k for a solid car?

Lets say If i bought this car for 3k , then spent 2k to get the rust fixed ( not like it would actually be that expensive to do a few spots ) then you basically have a solid car for the same price, as long as the floor boards or frame isn't some how rotted through.
 
I get what you're saying, around 5-6k for a solid car?

Lets say If i bought this car for 3k , then spent 2k to get the rust fixed ( not like it would actually be that expensive to do a few spots ) then you basically have a solid car for the same price, as long as the floor boards or frame isn't some how rotted through.
I get the feeling that this car has seen more than one shoddy repair and they do add up quickly. If you spend a little more time and money from the outset, you're likely to find something that either needs less work or is more clear about what it does need...
That car just looks like it's had too
many bandaid fixes for my taste.
 
Yeah , but at this point how perfect of a car are we taking about ... this is already a rare car to begin with, I'm not on the east coast like most of you so at this point I need to get the best I can get.

I think if the car was repaired badly there would be other areas showing the same symptoms...

I think I'll be able to spot any bondoed areas , I have a good eye for that, no auto body Would fill up a bubble rust hole , so most likely someone amauetuer did it therefore an amateur Bondo job would be easily spotted.

I think my plan now is to offer a lower price somewhere in the 2k ball park, talk to the owner, check the car for mor sh1t jobs , Then get the rust fixed if its not too bad

Since I'm in the northeast, actually the snowiest major city in the country, I've seen many rusty cars... and I've seen many, many pros Bondo up cars. It usually comes down to cost and the price is driven by the customer wanting a cheap fix that looks good for a while. This was especially true in the 70's and 80's, but it holds true today.

I get what you're saying, around 5-6k for a solid car?

Lets say If i bought this car for 3k , then spent 2k to get the rust fixed ( not like it would actually be that expensive to do a few spots ) then you basically have a solid car for the same price, as long as the floor boards or frame isn't some how rotted through.


Again, referencing where I live, a rusty car is a rusty car. If there's one spot, there's more. Fixing them correctly is not cheap. There are no patch panels worth using and everything must either be sourced used or fabricated. $2k won't buy you much repair.

As a very wise friend once told me, "Buy the best car you can afford" if you are doing a restoration. If you have your heart set on this car, go for it.. It will not be cheap to fix though.

But... What do I know?
 
What GJS said! Cheap cars can be very expensive!

That little faux pas can easily & quickly add up to 20K, more if parts have to get involved. Good Luck

Lets say If i bought this car for 3k , then spent 2k to get the rust fixed ( not like it would actually be that expensive to do a few spots ) then you basically have a solid car for the same price, as long as the floor boards or frame isn't some how rotted through.

True dat, but like I said above that it can add up quick. Now it becomes a crapshoot.
 
can I just get a welder to cut that out and weld on some sheet metal?

Once you start digging you start discovering, just watch any of the resto shows on TV, you'll see what happens when you strip the paint off. It's like where do you stop.

Good Luck!

(edit) Where's the blower motor? Oh I see your in Cali you don't need that, plus hope you never have to jump start it in the dark.
 
Lets say If i bought this car for 3k , then spent 2k to get the rust fixed ( not like it would actually be that expensive to do a few spots )
You're delusional if you thing 2 grand will cover it and you're good to go.
I applaud your enthusiasm but with each post where you're trying to convince us on the merits of your thinking, I hope that after pulling the trigger on something, the real world doesnt kick your *** and you give up.

Seen that several times here.
I thought, This is gonna be a fiasco, and I was right.
But a few proved me wrong.
 
Take a look through this:

Darrell Brown loved this car to death

It's a great example of hidden rust and bad repairs.

But it also shows how much someone will do to keep a car going.

Myself, I stop looking at a car when I see that kind of body repair needed on your last pic.

That can be a rabbit hole of work.

I wait it out and pay more for something better.

Unless it's a parts car.

Hope the input helps.

John
 
woooah...
Okay so I just blew the 65 300 for $3500 deal. The person was a frign jerk!

After 4 days of texting about the car (which according to the guy I spoke to , is "too long" and I'm "dumb" for taking too long to buy the car)
I call the guy and he first tells me the car has been in their family for their whole life,

So I naturally ask him about engine work (since the valve covers are not factory)
And he tells me its his grandparents car and he doesn't know anything about it ...
weird, its been in your family your whole life but you don't know anything about ANY of the work done to the car??? hmm
...okay I guess???
then I simply ask if he could ask if it was possible if his grand parents could give me more details...and he basically gets pissed off at me for asking too many questions. Then repeatedly calls me dumb while making the argument "its a car for 3500 hasnt ran since 05 " "WHAT MORE DO YOU NEED TO KNOW".. he said it probably needs "the gasket DRAAAAAINED" "needs a new plug and wires and a new battery and then it will run"

I tried to explain the car is about 300 miles away and I just need more info before I buy a project car...
Not sure about other people, I'm still a college student with not a whole lot of money so I like at least know a little bit about the frign car before taking a look.
 
You're delusional if you thing 2 grand will cover it and you're good to go.
I applaud your enthusiasm but with each post where you're trying to convince us on the merits of your thinking, I hope that after pulling the trigger on something, the real world doesnt kick your *** and you give up.

Seen that several times here.
I thought, This is gonna be a fiasco, and I was right.
But a few proved me wrong.

wow really? **** off d1ck ... I wasn't 100% confident about this.
but thats why I added the case where it was only "a few" areas (by that I mean at the most cutting out a square foot) to be repaired , for 2 grand would definitely cover that and would be estimated way HIGH.

why don't you give some examples and real information, all you do is fkn blow it out of your a55 every comment.
 
Again, referencing where I live, a rusty car is a rusty car. If there's one spot, there's more. Fixing them correctly is not cheap. There are no patch panels worth using and everything must either be sourced used or fabricated. $2k won't buy you much repair.

As a very wise friend once told me, "Buy the best car you can afford" if you are doing a restoration. If you have your heart set on this car, go for it.. It will not be cheap to fix though.

But... What do I know?

thats good advice , honestly I'm talking everyone's advice (critical and reasonable) , into consideration and I appreciate it. I haven't bought a car yet and passed up about over 12 .. bc I know when to buy.

I mean what kind of repair are we talking about. How bad of a rust are we talking about? I can see large panels needing to be replaced costing 2 grand but not a few small areas. (which is what I was initially referred to), seems like other people are putting words in my mouth.
 
Not sure about other people, I'm still a college student with not a whole lot of money so I like at least know a little bit about the frign car before taking a look.
If you are in college with limited money, why were you looking at that $20k car you first posted?
I'm confused...

Edit - you may not realize it, but Commando is a helluva sanity-checker.
And please resist the profanity, this place is clean and we like it that way.
 
Take a look through this:

Darrell Brown loved this car to death

It's a great example of hidden rust and bad repairs.

But it also shows how much someone will do to keep a car going.

Myself, I stop looking at a car when I see that kind of body repair needed on your last pic.

That can be a rabbit hole of work.

I wait it out and pay more for something better.

Unless it's a parts car.

Hope the input helps.

John


thanks for your advice, but honestly I think this is also a good example of what condition the car I posted IS NOT in. which is why I'm making lower repair cost estimations... but you never know.i could be wrong I haven't looked at the car.
 
If you are in college with limited money, why were you looking at that $20k car you first posted?
I'm confused...

I can afford monthlies , but yeah you're still right 20k is more than I would like to pay and I mainly was asking peoples opinion about the price of that car.

but I can't afford paying mechanics to do multiple BIG jobs.

I also don't have to pay rent , have a steady job, and have free tuition
so don't have a chunk to dump doing repairs.
 
Okay, that one little spot you showed on the blue car in front of the rear wheel...... If it turns out like I'm thinking it will, there will be at least three separate layers of sheet metal to replace behind the spot you see. If you're lucky it just might not include the rocker panel which is another several layers. All of these layers are independent and placement of them is critical for strength and window bracket mounting points and the like. Best case and it's only the first 3 layers - you have to open the entire outer shell to access the inner parts as well as coming from the inside out. Go look at some of the thread about "his name is Dennis" or something like that to get an idea what a can of worms you can get into.. Being you're in California you may have a lot better luck than what many of us are used to, but there's no guarantees of that either. Good luck whichever way you jump.
 
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