Wyatt convinced me to destroy my 71...

The texture of the buffing pad has no impact on the cutting action. How well the cerium oxide is hydrated will affect the polishing action and the finish quality. The lack of the amount of hydration can cause surface cloudiness due to excessive heat generated and transferred to the plastic laminate in the safety glass. I am looking forward to seeing New Yorker in person. If you need help. PM me.
 
The buffing pads (spounge like material) found at the local hardware store come in several different textures.
I would be reluctant to use the coarse pads. Just by the feel of some, I am certain I would've left scratches on the glass. That's why I opted for the pads that were less abrasive.
There isn't any cloudiness in the windshield, so I'm happy with the result.
 
Thanks for your detailed explanation!

I'm going to try that treatment on the rear window I bought from Wyatt.
It has a lot of small scratches and white limescale around the edges.
I hope the Cerium Oxide will let that rear Window look like new.
 
Last year I purchased new cat whiskers for the NYer through Van’s Auto and started to remove the factory OEM piece that is attached to the door panel today.
Thought I'd share what I ran into when beginning the replacement on these parts.
When beginning to remove the old one I noticed there is a slight difference between the old parts & new whiskers produced by Top Catwhiskers. The original OEM part is affixed to the door panel with metal tabs, whereas the re-pop part does not have the tabs to secure the part to the door panel.
I’ve had luck using the product Shoe Goo in the past because of its adhesiveness and durability and will most likely go this route to secure the new cat whiskers to both door panels.

BTW, the cat whiskers that get attached directly to the door, as seen in the pic, are secured with built in tabs that match the same locations as the OEM part. Should also mention, when putting the new whiskers with the clips onto the doors, be sure to use correct whisker as there is one used for the Left side and the other for the Right side.

Cat wiskers1.jpg


Cat wiskers2.jpg


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Cat wiskers6 .jpg
 
There aren't any makings on the re-pop whiskers, but as seen from this picture, they are different.
(these two are the ones that go on the door panel)
Cat wiskers9.jpg
 
FYI - For cat whiskers window trim I used pop rivets at the same locations as the metal staples.
 
After almost 13 months being away to have the 71 NYer's bodywork and paint done, the car has finally made it back to the stable where it'll get put back together.
pick up 3_10_22 before the snow.jpg

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Last week we had sunny weather and temps reached 70 degrees. Taking advantage of the timely weather being the weekend, I parked out back and gave her a good washing.
When spraying the hose at the windshield to rinse off the soap, I noticed there is a bad leak, with a stream of water dripping into the interior from the top where it should've been sealed. That wasn't expected, but it will need to be addressed before driving season begins.
first wash back from painter.jpg

Today I'll be checking the brakes to try to pinpoint why my brake light on the dash is staying on. Maybe form sitting for so long, who knows?
So, it's up on the hoist until it's figured out.

on hoist rear 2022.jpg

on hoist DS 2022.jpg
on hoist to check brakes.jpg


on hoist DS 2022.jpg


on hoist to check brakes.jpg
 
These results were worth the waiting for. Premo quality body and paint work. The trim looks like new. Congrats Tim, can't wait to see it in person.
 
Tim, are you overall happy with the result? When the trim was off the car, did the shop remove the tiny posts that hold the trim clips on so they could use a long board to get the body sides straight or was the sheet metal so nice in the first place that a minimum of longboard use was even necessary?

Who did you end up using for the proper paint color/fine metallic match of the original crystal dawn metallic and was it actually right on or ??? I think I recall you said this was a basecoat, clearcoat car and who was the paint supplier (brand)?

Looks nice from what we can see...............................
 
Done for the day. Wifey wants to go out for dinner, and so do I.
You can pm me with questions. I'll try to get back at this tomorrow.



Road Wheels back on.jpg
 
Somebody optioned out an amazing car in 71. What a beauty! Well done on the resto.
 
The last couple times I went to start the NYer, the 50-year-old original starter was starting to crap out, so I decided to get a new one from Summit.

Before installation and knowing the proximity where it will be to the exhaust pipe and using the OEM style compared to a mini starter, I thought it'd be a good idea to wrap the starter to prevent any heat-soak that may occur. I thought of doing this because I did the same thing on my R/T, and it has never given me a problem or any issue with restarting the car after it has been driven for a while, reaching full temperature.
To keep the wrap in place, it's best to use 18-gauge metal wire. There are metal straps that can be purchased to secure it in place too.

Starter wrap2.jpg
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Starter wrap1.jpg

Now comes the fun part....
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I'm scratching my head why the new starter is bigger than the old one.
In either case, it fits and easily turns over the engine.
Starter wrap8.jpg
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The pinstripes still need to go back onto the car, and I've got a guy lined up for that.
But before the car gets the pinstripes, the endcaps needed to be lined up properly.
Endcap DS old.jpg
Endcap PS old.jpg
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Endcap DS new.jpg
Endcap PS new.jpg
 
There is a heavy duty starter available that was used the Hemi, med. duty trucks and BB cars. My guess is the starter had been replaced w/ the smaller starter at some point. The small starters didn't last long in BB Block applications. I had heavy duty starters in my 69 Charger 500 and Sports Fury GT, I had no starter problems w/ them.
 
I really like the attention to detail. That car will be remarkable and a real testament to 71 New Yorkers. Keep up the great work - I love that car!
 
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