74 Monaco Coupe Project

jason99

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Starting a thread to show what I'm up to with my project.

Today I installed a radiator I had re-cored locally by B&L Radiator nearby in Alpharetta GA. Also installed was a new upper and lower radiator hose. The upper hose fit perfectly. The lower hose that was listed as fitting was two inches short as seen here.

lowerradiator.JPG


There were no other lower radiator molded options so I wandered the hose isle at the parts store before settling on a Dayco Length E 71901, which I cropped about 8 inches off of.
dayco - Copy.JPG


It fits fairly well.
daycoinstalled.JPG


Fuel line is all toast and the tank is uninstalled and iffy, so fired it up off the gas can to check for leaks. Happily everything was OK.
 
Brake work was up next. The master cylinder was completely dry and filled with debris. This is after a bunch of scrubbing and brake kleen. Considering it's a cheap part, I'm going to scrap this one and get a re manufactured unit from OReilly tomorrow.
mastercylinder.jpg


Once the new master is in, I'm going to replace the rubber brake lines front and back and assess the state of the front calipers. I suspect they are both frozen based on a visual inspection.
 
Check the steel brake lines from the MC to the brake distribution block, from the looks of your master, they are probably rusting from the inside out. Outside of them does not look very good either. Probably a good time to rebuild the calipers and also replace the rear brake hose and wheel cylinders. Brake systems that have been left dry like this one usually have lots of corrosion. You may need a full set of steel line from inline tube or another vendor. It is always better to error on the side of caution when it comes to brakes. If this MC was leaking into the booster, it is very likely you will need to rebuild the booster as well.

Dave
 
I'll be on my own to make new steel lines if these are shot because as far as I can tell, no one makes pre-bent lines for these cars.

How can I tell if the MC was leaking into the booster and if it needs to be rebuilt. This may be obvious, but I'm new at this.
 
I'll be on my own to make new steel lines if these are shot because as far as I can tell, no one makes pre-bent lines for these cars.

How can I tell if the MC was leaking into the booster and if it needs to be rebuilt. This may be obvious, but I'm new at this.

www.inlinetube.com will reproduce any steel line if you send them your old ones to use as a pattern. You can also make the lines yourself with the copper impregnated steel tubing as it is easy to form. If you go that route, be sure to double flare all connection points so the brake line does not pull out of the fittings on a panic stop. Very Important!

If you pull the MC and there is fluid residue on the entrance to the brake booster, you should assume that fluid got inside and the unit should be rebuilt. Have it rebuilt at a quality shop and do not, whatever you do, put a Cardone reman unit on your car. www.boosterdeweyexchange.com does high quality rebuilds.

Dave
 
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Inline tube does make brake lines for a Formal. You might have to call them and check to see if they make them for another Formal like a New Yorker. The brake lines are all the same for Formals except 74-75 Imps with rear disc brakes.

Also, get the lower radiator hose from NAPA. They have the correct size and length.
 
Brake work was up next. The master cylinder was completely dry and filled with debris. This is after a bunch of scrubbing and brake kleen. Considering it's a cheap part, I'm going to scrap this one and get a re manufactured unit from OReilly tomorrow.
View attachment 237371

Once the new master is in, I'm going to replace the rubber brake lines front and back and assess the state of the front calipers. I suspect they are both frozen based on a visual inspection.

Don't waste your money on a rebuilt master cylinder. They usually don't last long. Spend the extra for a brand new one.
 
www.inlinetube.com will reproduce any steel line if you send them your old ones to use as a pattern. You can also make the lines yourself with the copper impregnated steel tubing as it is easy to form. If you go that route, be sure to double flare all connection points so the brake line does not pull out of the fittings on a panic stop. Very Important!

If you pull the MC and there is fluid residue on the entrance to the brake booster, you should assume that fluid got inside and the unit should be rebuilt. Have it rebuilt at a quality shop and do not, whatever you do, put a Cardone reman unit on your car. www.boosterdeweyexchange.com does high quality rebuilds.

Dave

There was mucky fluid on the piston extending from the brake booster. Thanks for the tip on avoiding the Cardone reman.
 
I'll be on my own to make new steel lines if these are shot because as far as I can tell, no one makes pre-bent lines for these cars.

How can I tell if the MC was leaking into the booster and if it needs to be rebuilt. This may be obvious, but I'm new at this.
Inline tube will make a set for your car if you ship them the old ones to use as a pattern. Give them a call, great people to work with.
 
Inline tube does make brake lines for a Formal. You might have to call them and check to see if they make them for another Formal like a New Yorker. The brake lines are all the same for Formals except 74-75 Imps with rear disc brakes.

Also, get the lower radiator hose from NAPA. They have the correct size and length.

I checked Inline Tube's site for a bunch of different formals and came up with nothing. I'll give them a call Monday and see if maybe it's just not listed online.

NAPA only lists a flex hose for a lower radiator on a small block (everyone has one for the big block). The only place that lists a molded hose for the smallblock is RockAuto as Continental branded part, which is what you see pictured.
 
Don't waste your money on a rebuilt master cylinder. They usually don't last long. Spend the extra for a brand new one.

Thanks, I had no idea. It seems like it would be a good candidate for a refurb, but I guess not.
 
If I do end up bending my own lines, will I need a 37 or 45 degree double flare toolset?
 
I'll be on my own to make new steel lines if these are shot because as far as I can tell, no one makes pre-bent lines for these cars.

How can I tell if the MC was leaking into the booster and if it needs to be rebuilt. This may be obvious, but I'm new at this.
 
You can save your brake lines by disconnecting the lines from the master and the wheel cylinders then using proper gloves pour MEK solvent in the lines I use a vet style syringe. Let it sit for a day then with a rag over one end of brake lines supply air pressure repeat this watching the rag till it shows no residue. Also remove and clean tee block on differential housing this little bugger will bring you hours of misery if you forget this when you go to bleed the brakes. This Solvent also works wonders on old gas tanks.
 
Brake booster is removed. I thought this was going to be easy but the four bolts in the firewall require you to get into some unnatural angles to get them off.

IMG-1012.JPG
IMG-1013.JPG
IMG-1014.JPG
 
I checked Inline Tube's site for a bunch of different formals and came up with nothing. I'll give them a call Monday and see if maybe it's just not listed online.

NAPA only lists a flex hose for a lower radiator on a small block (everyone has one for the big block). The only place that lists a molded hose for the smallblock is RockAuto as Continental branded part, which is what you see pictured.

The bottom radiator hose from NAPA is 7320.

20181216_144404.jpg
 
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