Really appreciate that advice thank you - the only bulbs I can see that will fit the original connectors are H4 Halogen type - I'd be happy with some older style bulbs, I agree the H4s I've put in might well be causing the issue, any ideas about part number for old style low amp draw that would have the same 3 pin fitment please?
The current sealed beams are NOT the same as what came with the car. They now have a more European (sharper upper cut-off) beam pattern than the older sealed beams did. Plus, they are halogen now rather than what they used to be. You can still get them, just not everywhere in auto supply or discount stores.
I've had H4 E-code (started out with Cibie, then Cibie Z-beams, then SEV-Marchal) headlights in my '77 Camaro for years. No issues. Replacing the stock sealed beams, I had to adjust them "up" from where the sealed beam adjustment was. I pretty much aimed them "by eye". Keep the lh lateral adjustment so it just lights up the center pavement markings, in that lane to keep it out of oncoming drivers' eyes. Then set the vertical such that when driving on a flat bridge, the main beam was parallel to the road surface, then crank it down 1/2 turn for good measure . . . on low beam. ALSO, not how the beam pattern "hits" on the car in front of you at a red light. It should be low enough to stay out of that car's rear view mirrors when pulling up behind it!
With a 4-light system, use the same rules for low beam aim, when on high beam, all four of the "hot spots" should be side-by-side, so to speak, so the high beams should match the low beams on "high", when aimed as I mentioned.
I came by my adjustments by trial and error, as I did a lot of night driving in that car and wanted to utilize the better "down the road" lighting of the E-code lights.
The reason the non-sealed beams were not legal is that the reflector can degrade from moisture accumulation, over time. Which is why I had to replace the lights every so often. Using the normal H4 bulbs, too. Initially, they were street-legal for motorcycles only, in the USA. When more USA cars started to use composite headlights with replaceable bulbs, then the non-sealed beam lights seemed to be quietly approved.
The ones I have all have had a rubber boot that slid over the bulb, from the back, to weather seal the bulb/headlight interface. The modern OEM composite lights have bulbs with a built-in "weather-pak"multi-lip seal around their circumference.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
I did determine that the 3-prong connectors could get warm when the lights are on. This is why the quality (gauge AND insulation) of the headlight pigtails is important, should you ever need to replace them. There are some cheap/junky pigtails out there, by observation!
