1969 Imperial progress thread

As Dave stated a wash primer first on bare metal inside and out as best you can. Wash primers are water-thin coatings of phosphoric acid insolutions of vinyl butyal resin, alcohol, and other ingredients.They are very low in solids with almost no filling qualities.Their functions are to passivate the surface, temporarilyprovide corrosion resistance, and provide an adhesive basefor the next coating, such as a urethane or epoxy primer.Wash primers do not require sanding and have high corrosionprotection qualities. Some have a very small recoat timeframe that must be considered when painting.

Remove lead like Alan has shown, neutralize any rust in the seam with some sort of phosphoric acid then paint the seam with a decent paint not primer then use a all metal type of epoxy filler to smooth seam, plastic filler for final finish leveling. This is what I have done in the past. I am not a professional body man so don't take it as gospel.
 
I've never used por-15 products, Basically, its a wash primer. Convenient that it comes in a spray.
 
Also called etching primer, I believe.

POR 15 is not very good at sticking to shiny bare metal, sticks to rusty pitted or sandblasted metal very well.
 
It was a busy "vacation" week but it was necessary to protect the carcase from rusting over the winter time, when I can't work on it because its to cold in my "shop".
After reading a lot about wash primers, I found a great product that solved two purposes. But let me start at the beginning.

First step was to get the carcase rolling to get it out of my shop. And because special rolling boards are crazy expensive, I made my own from a scrap dolly and some heavy duty shelf posts.
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It's a very tight fit, but it works flawless!!
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After that was done, I started to media blast the whole body (outer skin) on every spot I couldn't reach with the angle grinder.
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I can tell you, that was a PITA! Especially the undersides of the panels on the rear..!
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Finally, after 4 Days of blasting the hell out of the car, it was ready for the rust converter treatment. I used FERTAN, a really great product. It's a rust converter and wash primer. It creates a overpaintable protective layer of zinc oxide. I will apply epoxy primer directly on this coating next year after welding all the rosty panels I found.

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It was a busy week, but now winter can come..! I'm really happy with my progress.

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Wow! I really don't know what else to say......amazing work. I hope you stay focused with this.
It is at this stage many cars get walked away from
 
Great work Julian! Are you going to continue rebuilding parts in your living room through the winter?
 
Wow! I really don't know what else to say......amazing work. I hope you stay focused with this.
It is at this stage many cars get walked away from

I will continue! I promise ;)
I can't affort to walk away, but more important, I want to drive it! ;)


Great work Julian! Are you going to continue rebuilding parts in your living room through the winter?

Correct, Matt. I will finish grinding the floorpans and treat them with BRUNOX, a european equivalent to POR15, this year because of rust protection. But when it's to cold to keep on working on the shell, I'm going to continue working on the carriable parts in my living room!
 
Love the "vodka" shots! This thread is a real "how to" guide. The way you have treated the metal will guarantee your great grand kids will still be enjoying this car decades from now.
 
First step was to get the carcase rolling to get it out of my shop. And because special rolling boards are crazy expensive, I made my own from a scrap dolly and some heavy duty shelf posts.

You can't fool me. . . You are using your bed frame. . . Aren't you ?!?

I continue to be awestruck by your workmanship and commitment.
 
For over two years you have me left speechless and amazed.
I am disgusted with myself for now realizing I have wasted my life.
Awesome perseverance, Vodka. Just awesome.

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Love the "vodka" shots! This thread is a real "how to" guide. The way you have treated the metal will guarantee your great grand kids will still be enjoying this car decades from now.

Haha, Vodka shots. I like that ;)

You can't fool me. . . You are using your bed frame. . . Aren't you ?!?

:laughing4: I would have, but my bed frame is wrapped in leather. Not good for that purpose ;)

I swear they're posts of the shelfs in my shop!
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For over two years you have me left speechless and amazed.
I am disgusted with myself for now realizing I have wasted my life.
Awesome perseverance, Vodka. Just awesome.

All of your great support and encouragement is what incites me every single time! This community, and every individual of you are awesome! Thanks for all the great feedbacks and support!

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Looks great!

BTW, bed frame is a great and cheap source of material for stuff like that... I've used it many times. You just have to realize it's brittle in comparison to cold rolled angle iron especially after welding.
 
Looks great!

BTW, bed frame is a great and cheap source of material for stuff like that... I've used it many times. You just have to realize it's brittle in comparison to cold rolled angle iron especially after welding.
Yah but they are cheap at the 2nd hand stores.
Maybe 5 dollars a set. Love them. And they cut nice.
Love them.

Comando1's Helpful Hint of the day #104:

An excellent source for small diameter rod and/or angle iron is available for free at the nearest property for sale to you. :D

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I made my dolly for the cost of 8 bolts. That's nearly unbeatable. Normally the casters are $250 easy to carry this weight!
 
Yah but they are cheap at the 2nd hand stores.
Maybe 5 dollars a set. Love them. And they cut nice.
Love them.

Comando1's Helpful Hint of the day #104:

An excellent source for small diameter rod and/or angle iron is available for free at the nearest property for sale to you. :D

Double-Rider-Real-Estate-Frame.png

We could do a whole thread on the things you can do with...ummm... found shopping carts. They are very handy.
 
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