barnfind
Old Man with a Hat
Works in a pinch
440 Coolant leak from passenger side
- Thread starter pmschmitt
- Start date
traintech55
Senior Member
When you decide to freshen up the engine, that would be the best time to replace all of them.
traintech55
Senior Member
Only do it that way to get it started, after that use a larger socket with the flat side on the rim to seat it or you could distort the new plug.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I would also put some sealer on the edge of the new plug kinda like this.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I spent 2 DAYS last weekend cleaning out an extremely corroded freeze plug behind the passenger side motor mount. Finally, an improvised sanding drum got the rust-welded remnant of the old steel plug out. Pounding a brass plug in that confined, awkward space just destroyed the brass plug, so I then ordered a Dorman 02483 copper expansion plug to fit in there. Your 440 plug looks like the EASY one just down from the motor mount, so I advise you to go ahead and drive in a nice BRASS plug, so you needn't worry about it for a good long time. If you prefer the Dorman expansion plug I got, that should be fine too.
Since the CHEAP Anchor 2250 motor mount on the driver side peeled apart just a couple days after replacing it, I have to do that little job again. Having a good sturdy torque strap helps here. At least the rubber still does the job of damping motor vibrations and VatoZone is honoring their warranty.
I plan to finish replacing all the freeze plugs this month save the rear, until it starts weeping. I don't particularly relish dropping the tranny if I don't have to. Yes, SEVERAL of my freeze plugs only retain water because they were PAINTED! But they have done so over this scorching summer, and I thank the Lord, His angels and saints for that. I suspect the crud behind my passenger motor mount had been neglected for at least a decade. I poked my finger through it after removing the old motor mount.
I replaced the very plug you pictured back in 2005 on my '66 New Yorker's 440 in under 40 minutes. The middle plugs are pretty easy. The back plugs, not quite so as you must remove the starter on the driver side, and the exhaust on the passenger side. Might as well do your motor mounts for the front plugs, or check the plugs if you're doing your motor mounts.
Hope your job proves to be easier than mine.
Since the CHEAP Anchor 2250 motor mount on the driver side peeled apart just a couple days after replacing it, I have to do that little job again. Having a good sturdy torque strap helps here. At least the rubber still does the job of damping motor vibrations and VatoZone is honoring their warranty.
I plan to finish replacing all the freeze plugs this month save the rear, until it starts weeping. I don't particularly relish dropping the tranny if I don't have to. Yes, SEVERAL of my freeze plugs only retain water because they were PAINTED! But they have done so over this scorching summer, and I thank the Lord, His angels and saints for that. I suspect the crud behind my passenger motor mount had been neglected for at least a decade. I poked my finger through it after removing the old motor mount.
I replaced the very plug you pictured back in 2005 on my '66 New Yorker's 440 in under 40 minutes. The middle plugs are pretty easy. The back plugs, not quite so as you must remove the starter on the driver side, and the exhaust on the passenger side. Might as well do your motor mounts for the front plugs, or check the plugs if you're doing your motor mounts.
Hope your job proves to be easier than mine.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I didn't know there was any other way.
This may work...
AAP has it on the shelf. I used it installing wheel bearing seals.
AAP has it on the shelf. I used it installing wheel bearing seals.
superfragl
Active Member
I always use "Indian head" shellac for this purpose. That`s what an old machinist told me years ago. Never a leak.
For the record, yes all Big Block Mopars have dry intakes ... wonderful design and keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the intake and coolant out of it and allows air to circulate to boot. If not in a cold climate or winter driving is not an issue can block of heat crossover too.
Can change intake w/o worrying about coolant leaks or mess. Lot of good stuff to the Big Block mopar. External oil pump, dizzy in front, crank not hanging half out the bottom etc.
I know you know most of that but answered and posted the rest for others benefit.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
There are no freeze/core plugs on the rear of a bigblock.
Got it repaired. Ended up using the rubber expansion plugs. I tried to do it right with a freeze plug tool and actual freeze plugs... But after 3 hours and multiple trips to the parts store I gave in. I figured the rubber ones will suffice until I pull the motor. It took me about 3 minutes to replace with a rubber one and no leaks ...yet anyway. Thanks to all who have input on this thread. Very helpful.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Get the copper expansion plugs, the Dorman 02483 when you can, and when your rubber stoppers fail, use those to replace them. I used a rubber one recently too on the driver side, just to hold for a couple daze... Worked fine for that. I've seen pretty good reviews of the copper expansion plugs, including one at this forum somewhere.
Eventually, I'll have to haul this 383 up out of the compartment, but for this year, its still running amazingly well, given its age and neglect, so I'm in no hurry to "fix" what isn't yet busted. I can do plenty bolt-on repairs without getting a shop crane. Yes, these B/RB motors ARE truly excellent! Most user-friendly V8 I've been privileged to own and work on.
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