67 fury 4 link

[67fury3kidd]

I would lime to do 4 link coilover suspension in the rear of my 67 fury3 convertible, I found a kit you can order but it's stupid expensive so I was wondering if anyone had some info on a different way rather than ordering the 3000 dollar kit also was wondering if there was a way to upgrade the front suspension from torsion bars

 

[CBODY67]

Several years ago, I ran across some guys that had lowered "slabs" and they did it with a 4-link rear suspension. They had extensive pictures on the website I found. The ease of doing it was quite interesting! Using existing rear "frame" areas to do the whole deal.

The question I might have is "Why?" What can the coil-over set-up do that can't be achieved wit the existing leaf spring design? Just curious.

One of the key things in a "link" rear suspension, whether a stock GM-style design or otherwise, is the lateral location rod's location and "arc of movement". As close as the clearance between the tire and quarter panel can be, as is, this lateral movement might become an issue.

The one real advantage I can see in the "link" design is getting the leaf springs out of the way for monster backspacing wheels and tires. But then that'd also mean new wheel tubs at the back, too. Again, "Why?"

Seems like the guy that had the website did it on a '66 Newport 2-dr hardtop, in basic black satin? Probably in a Google search?

The ride characteristics of a coil-over system are definitely different than either an older coil spring suspension or torsion bars and leaf springs. The theory might be the same, but the actual dynamics are different.

CBODY67

 

[sportsuburban]

Depending on what the kit has 3k might not be a bad deal. Of course it still needs to be installed and then tuned. Suspension kinematics is complex and not generally unsterstood well by "the guy next door with a welder." This is a major project. A poorly designed and tuned 4-link is miserable to drive. Better off with good springs and custom tuned shocks.

The beauty (and hassle) of a 4-link is the ability to set it up for so many differing conditions. Strip, street, rally, circle track all can be done. Though there might be better options for a few of those.

Some thoughts. All tubing should be CrMo (4130 or 4140). Use a least one rubber (not solid or poly) bushing per link to allow for compliance unless strip only. Avoid heims, jonny joints etc. unless you are off roading. Use a Watts link instead of a panhard bar or heaven forbid wishbone for lateral control. Very important on the Watts link IMHO.

The front can be done but requires a fair amount of work unless you buy one of those bolt in kits. If you do, at least weld it in but there are better options.

Give me a few days and I'll post some pictures of a 4-link in a 68 Fury fastop.

 

[67fury3kidd]

@sportsuburban thanks for the advice, I want to try to configure my own set up because I'll be doing it out of pocket and I just can't justify the cost if the kit that I found a couple weeks ago that I can't find again, please do upload those pictures if you can that would be great

 

[LocuMob]

Here's a ladder bar setup, gives you some idea of what you need to do.


Making a big car fast......the struggle is real.

 

[hotrodharley66]

Here's the setup I build for my girlfriends 66 Windsor in May. Hopefully it will give you a little direction

Custom built 4 link 1966 Chrysler Windsor

 

[hotrodharley66]

I would lime to do 4 link coilover suspension in the rear of my 67 fury3 convertible, I found a kit you can order but it's stupid expensive so I was wondering if anyone had some info on a different way rather than ordering the 3000 dollar kit also was wondering if there was a way to upgrade the front suspension from torsion bars

I tagged a link in my previous reply for the rear 4 link I built. The only option for the front in a bolt in format are these 2 kits:

Mopar C-Body Transformer 2x4 Frame and Suspension

Mopar C-Body Transformer Tubular Frame and Suspension