So on a cool evening car started rough, I flooded the motor. towed it home. Popped the plugs, blew out the gas, dried it out. Carb float needed replaced. Now it wont start... What did I do?... Sounds....."hollow" when I crank it over. Just spins.... I can hear the 'cough' out of the pipe so I believe my compression is still good, and it occasionally does fire, but wont catch and idle... BTW, i did blow up the muffler, but it should still idle... The motor just doesn't quite sound right. The starter sounds like it's working 'extra' hard to crank the motor over also... So I'm bewildered... Going to pop the valve coves off and make sure they're moving alright, but I'm at a loss... Any ideas would be appreciated. I'm pretty handy, just replaced the frost plugs on the rear of the motor, had to remove tranny to do that, I've done head gaskets on my jeep and just replaced peripheral items on this Fury. But there's like 5 moving parts, so there's not that much that can go wrong... what am i missing?....
73 Fury 360. Flooded motor, wont start. replaced carb float, fires barely, no idle...
- Thread starter Rustic0ne
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
1. Start with fuel delivery. Getting fuel?
2. Then go to electrical. Getting spark?
2. Then go to electrical. Getting spark?
Yah, I have spark, consistent, from all plugs. Plenty of fuel. vapor out of carb, maybe too much fuel still... sprays a little in fact. That seems like too much fuel. but, it should still fire.... so i'm still confused...
Rwc
Senior Member
Did enough gas go into the cylinders to dry them? You might want to check the oil for the smell of gas. I went through it once with an old ford. Ended up having to change the oil and squirt a little oil in each cylinder and spin it in with no plugs in.
Enough Gas to dry them?..... There was too much gas in the cylinders... Pulled the plugs, cranked the motor and gas shot out the spark plug hole... Left them open for the day after cranking as much out as I could. So now it will fire every 3rd crank or so but doesn't catch. Won't hold the idle... Battery is on a charger so I can crank all day, but man, it should be starting... I've pulled the plugs to make sure there is spark. and it fires a bit, so I know it's there. I'll check the oil for the smell of gas. Another big difference is the sound when it cranks... In the past after releasing the ignition it would spin down for a sec if it didnt start i mean... Now, I realease the ignition as it stops straight away, no spin down of the starter or maybe it was the fly wheel that would spin for sec?... Anyway, something used to spin, and I'd have to wait for it to stop before trying to start again. Now, that same thing doesn't spin, like there is friction somewhere and the starter is working harder to turn the motor... any ideas what that could be? I dont hear my fly wheel catching on the dust cover or anything else catching when I crank it over. Weird..... Back to it. I'll check back in a bit for a response... Thanks for thoughts.
Rwc
Senior Member
I can only tell you my experience. If enough gas washes down the cylinders it will trash the oil. Stop turning the motor until you are sure there is no gas in that oil. Better to throw away good oil than a good motor. The oil will lose the ability to lube, making everything turn harder.
If you "blew up the muffler" you could have a restriction now. One of the baffles could be blocking the exhaust flow. Also, a backfire strong enough to blow the muffler could make the timing in the engine jump (seen it happen). Check your timing and cut the muffler off.
Rwc
Senior Member
Pull your distributor cap and turn the motor by hand until the button is pointing to number one cylinder. Then remove the plug from number on cylinder and see if the piston is at top dead center, or close
Rwc
Senior Member
Or on the crank. Try spinning by hand with the fan.
Update... Rotor in distributor doesn't turn as it should... As if the gears down below only catch part of the time. It turns partway then stops then continues again as the motor cranks. I bet that's bad... Also, I can't get the distributor to lift out... One clamp holding it down comes off easy, I don't see another clamp in there anywhere... The housing for the distributor will rotate around part way without the rotor/shaft spinning but I can't get the darn thing to lift out... Any suggestions? I don't want to pry on it as I've never done this before, I'd hate to break something.
Thanks guys, I will post some pictures of how it's looking. And yah, I'm thinking the dist is broken, or maybe something worse, that whatever the dist connects to down in the motor is broken... The rotor does not spin freely by hand, it does move part way round as I crank the motor, then seems to 'get stuck', then will continue moving round as the motor continues to crank... Sounds bad doesn't it?....
Btw, not to duplicate conversations, I've posted this new distributor problem under electrical and ignition, with the heading, [h=2]"73 Fury. Darn Distributor Don't Dislodge..."[/h]
Btw, not to duplicate conversations, I've posted this new distributor problem under electrical and ignition, with the heading, [h=2]"73 Fury. Darn Distributor Don't Dislodge..."[/h]
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I would hold off cranking the engine over with the key until you diagnose.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I would ck the compression with a gauge, you may have to add some oil to the cyl's as was already said because the rings may be washed down. I believe the older small blocks have aluminum and nylon cam gears. When the nylon gets old and brittle they strip teeth off. This would explain the rotor not turning. If it has jumped time your compression will be low
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