Dallas 64 Newport

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newport64

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I'm Hector, from dallas, Tx and I recently acquired a 64 newport. It is in rough condition and still not in my possession. I am picking it up on labor day weekend. It is sitting on a ranch about 3 hours south of dallas. I believe it to be a 361 2bbl although it does not have a carburetor. It has the torqueflite auto push button tranny. It also has a broken windshield which I know will be hard to find.

My father in law owns and it is a gift. Only thing he could tell me is that it needs a carburetor and I need to clean out the gas tank. He apparently had it running last in 2003 but had the gas tank bypassed and used a little gas container under the hood. I dont know how bad this is.

First order of business is buying a carb and trying to get it running. I have found a remanufactured carb on both rockauto.com and autozone. It's a carter 2bbl I think. any opinion on these? or recommendations on what kind to get if not this? again I am not sure if it is the 361 or 383. I wont know until I drive down next weekend. I want to buy it so I can mess around with it next weekend before I bring it back to dallas since we will be there for the weekend.

What are the startup procedures? change the oil? drain and clean the gas tank? what else? I am new to working on these older carburated cars so I hope this community will be a great learning tool and a way to get direct feeback from other enthusiasts.

thanks!
 
Welcome to the site from the Motor City!
I would make sure the engine turns over by hand before trying to energize it. The carb from Rock Auto would probably be a good choice. Might be a good idea to pull the plugs to not only give them a visual inspection but to make it easier to turn it over by hand. Take an 1 1/4" socket and a breaker bar with you that'll fit the hex bolt on the front of the crank. Ideally if you could pull the distributer and prime the oil pump to circulate oil throughout. Pictures will be a must!
 
Thanks detmatt, I will most def take photos. I actually regret not taking photos last time I went out there. So I kind of understand your advice just have few questions:

so I'll check to see if the engine turns by hand by using a 1/4 inch socket and try to turn it? If it does which direction and what should I look for? Should it turn freely?

If the engine doesn't turn, what does this mean?

As far as pulling the plugs, where are they located and what do I need to look for?
 
Sorry Hector, I was going under the assumption that maybe you knew a bit more about these things.
First off that's inch and a 1/4" socket that fits the hex bolt on the lower pulley at the front of the engine. It'll be a little tricky to get at with the fan and the radiator shroud if so equipped but its not impossible. A breaker bar is a long rigid socket driver that'll fit the 1/2" drive 1 & 1/4" socket. Try turning engine over clockwise with that set up but not before pulling the spark plugs (the plugs I was referring to). It should turn freely, if it doesn't, report back.
 
This is the carb I'm trying to get.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...328&cc=1327328


So if all goes well, the engine will turn by hand and ill bolt on the carb. Which reminds me there are no bolts for the carb, will the carb come with the gasket and bolts? If not how do I find the what kind of bolts it needs?


Should I replace the spark plugs before trying to crank it? Also read that I should pour some fresh engine oil down the spark plug holes when I try to start it for the first time.


Other than that what else do you think I'll need? Some kind of carb spray to see if that helps it fire?


i will be at a ranch with no Internet so I want to be as prepared as possible to try and get it started so I can get it on the trailer.
 
I wouldn't hesitate to go prepared with a set of new plugs, if you don't need them right away you'll need them eventually. In fact I would try to use the old plugs if at all possible through the process of getting it running and then if all goes well with it replace the plugs along with whatever else you might need to do a complete tune up. You may find you want to replace the cap, rotor,plug wires and if its still running with the original points style ignition system you may want to upgrade to an electronic ignition system. Make sure there's oil in it and if you don't have an oil pressure gauge in the car you should plumb a mechanical oil pressure gauge under the hood for when you fire it the first time. Oil pressure will be the most important thing for you and if you have no way to tell that it has pressure when you start it you could do some serious damage.
 
I dunno about '64 but the OEM carter 2bbl for '68 was/is carter PN# 5-599 - I got mine from summit racing.

where in dallas are you? if you can get the car back here I can maybe assist some.

turning the motor is sometimes hard to do by hand, especially with the belts on and shroud and all that. plus if you take out the plugs mark the wires so you know where they go back. take lots of pictures. before and after.

the carb bolts to the intake with 4 nuts and there are studs sticking up out of the manifold. I think a 1/2" wrench. and you need a spacer in between. ive bought 2 carbs, and one came with a 1/2 spacer, and one didn't. neither one came with the nuts to bolt it on.
 
detmatt said:
I wouldn't hesitate to go prepared with a set of new plugs, if you don't need them right away you'll need them eventually. In fact I would try to use the old plugs if at all possible through the process of getting it running and then if all goes well with it replace the plugs along with whatever else you might need to do a complete tune up. You may find you want to replace the cap, rotor,plug wires and if its still running with the original points style ignition system you may want to upgrade to an electronic ignition system. Make sure there's oil in it and if you don't have an oil pressure gauge in the car you should plumb a mechanical oil pressure gauge under the hood for when you fire it the first time. Oil pressure will be the most important thing for you and if you have no way to tell that it has pressure when you start it you could do some serious damage.
Click to expand...

Detmatt I believe the car has an oil pressure gauge stock. I only want to start it to get it on the trailer. Do you think that will be ok? what does the oil pressure tell me? sorry rookie question. Once on the trailer ill be able to bring it home and do the tune up and whatever is necessary to get it running.
 
saylor said:
I dunno about '64 but the OEM carter 2bbl for '68 was/is carter PN# 5-599 - I got mine from summit racing.

where in dallas are you? if you can get the car back here I can maybe assist some.

turning the motor is sometimes hard to do by hand, especially with the belts on and shroud and all that. plus if you take out the plugs mark the wires so you know where they go back. take lots of pictures. before and after.

the carb bolts to the intake with 4 nuts and there are studs sticking up out of the manifold. I think a 1/2" wrench. and you need a spacer in between. ive bought 2 carbs, and one came with a 1/2 spacer, and one didn't. neither one came with the nuts to bolt it on.
Click to expand...

just ordered the carb from rock auto. I read a little more on it and it comes with the gasket or spacer you speak of but no mention of the nuts. It is rebuilt by auto line http://www.autoline.ca/

i will try my hardest to turn it by hand I guess I don't want it to mess anything up if I try to start it once I install the carb. Oh yea any idea where to source the nuts? Autozone? Napa?

and I'm located in Grand Prairie near Arlington. I'll need all the help I can get and maybe go for a cruise once I get it running. (Crosses fingers)
 
The nuts are nothing special, any hardware or home center and I believe they're just 1/4-20 or maybe 5/16-18.
if you have no oil pressure that means the oil isn't being pumped through the engine and you could burn it up before you get it on to the trailer. If the gauge shows even some pressure you should be fine but if its really low it's probably indication that a rebuild of the engine is necessary. The chances that it will drop right into gear and be driveable right away once you get it running may not be all that great either. Check the trans fluid too. If you get it running and idling on its own and you will attempt to move it and it doesn't feel like it wants to go into gear, put it in neutral for a minute and then back into gear and see if it will engage.
I am imagining the worst for you of course because you should be prepared for it and you've given no indication of how or where its been stored. You might have issues with the brakes, trans, cooling system and you certainly don't want to drive over the road with old tires even if they don't look worn. Old tires, no matter how much tread is left on them can come apart at speed. Trying the new carb on it will be ok but if the old one is still around and the parts move freely on it I'd put it on and use your can of hot start or carefully pour fuel right in the top before you hit the key. Have a fire extinguisher handy and also put the air cleaner back in place after you pour fuel in and before you start. There's always a chance that you get a column of flames shooting up from the carb and that is best to keep contained in the air cleaner.
This is all of course after you determined the engine will turn over by hand. There's a lot to consider and most of it shouldn't be taken lightly. You should also be prepared to load a non running car onto the trailer.
Will you have some help with you? Better yet experienced help?
 
hey bro -

the best thing would be for you to winch it onto the trailer and get it back here. you could hurt it trying to start/run it if its not ready. if you cannot turn the motor by hand with a big wrench it means something is stuck/froze/rusted, but to try to turn it you need to pull all the spark plugs, and sometimes loosen the belts too.
the issue is that it hasn't ran since whenever, so there is no oil up in the motor, so if it does turn over and fire when you try it is all very dry in there and dry is bad. if you cannot turn the motor by hand, you can sometimes work mystery oil into the spark plug holes and try to free up the motor by turning back and forth, but that takes some work.
and you will need a battery if you try - I didn't see that mentioned yet.
I agree with above ^^ use the old plugs if possible while you are goofing around. you can clean them with carb spray and a wire brush, or light sandpaper, etc., just for now.

im on the other side of town (garland) but if you get this thing to GP ill drive over there to help for a couple of hours and we can eyeball everything.


^^^^ good call on the fire extinguisher , just go to wally world and get a handheld one..... nothing like setting the top of the carb on fire. it will make you pucker if you aren't expecting it.
 
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Agreed, I'm leaning more and more towards you not planning on getting it to run where it sits. It'll be just as much fun in a controlled environment after dotting your I's and crossing your T's.
 
detmatt said:
The nuts are nothing special, any hardware or home center and I believe they're just 1/4-20 or maybe 5/16-18.
if you have no oil pressure that means the oil isn't being pumped through the engine and you could burn it up before you get it on to the trailer. If the gauge shows even some pressure you should be fine but if its really low it's probably indication that a rebuild of the engine is necessary. The chances that it will drop right into gear and be driveable right away once you get it running may not be all that great either. Check the trans fluid too. If you get it running and idling on its own and you will attempt to move it and it doesn't feel like it wants to go into gear, put it in neutral for a minute and then back into gear and see if it will engage.
I am imagining the worst for you of course because you should be prepared for it and you've given no indication of how or where its been stored. You might have issues with the brakes, trans, cooling system and you certainly don't want to drive over the road with old tires even if they don't look worn. Old tires, no matter how much tread is left on them can come apart at speed. Trying the new carb on it will be ok but if the old one is still around and the parts move freely on it I'd put it on and use your can of hot start or carefully pour fuel right in the top before you hit the key. Have a fire extinguisher handy and also put the air cleaner back in place after you pour fuel in and before you start. There's always a chance that you get a column of flames shooting up from the carb and that is best to keep contained in the air cleaner.
This is all of course after you determined the engine will turn over by hand. There's a lot to consider and most of it shouldn't be taken lightly. You should also be prepared to load a non running car onto the trailer.
Will you have some help with you? Better yet experienced help?
Click to expand...

The last time I was out there (3 weeks ago) I hooked up a battery charger to the battery and tried the electrical stuff. All the lights worked, blinkers, wipers turned on, etc. The last time the car ran was in 2003 or 2004 and after that the car was trailered to a ranch 3 hours south of dallas. It sat under a carport outside. I dont know if my father in law drained anything or did anything to conserve the engine.

Here is the list of things I am bringing and the steps I am thinking I will take. (sorry that I'm being repetitive but I want to have all my ducks in a row so I dont forget something and have a game plan)

I am bringing with me: (so far)

Carburetor
tranny fluid
gas can with gas
carb cleaner/spray to clean plugs
motor oil (what kind?)
spark plugs (what kind?)
fire extinguisher
necessary tools
car jack
 
then this is what I am planning on doing when I get there.

step 1: pull the plugs and mark where they go. why is this necessary?

step 2: check if motor turns with 1 1/4" socket, turn clockwise. how much do I turn if it turns? how much of a turn indicates its ok to proceed to try and start it?

step 3: once the engine turns, check the oil and add some fresh oil?

step 4: clean the plugs with carb cleaner and reinstall. do I add the the mystery oil at this point? should I install the new plugs right away to eliminate troubleshooting?

step 5: install the new carb with the new gasket, and pour some gas directly into the car. btw there is no original carb so I cant use it to test it out. also, how much gas do I pour into the carb? and what is hotstart?

step 6: install the air cleaner/filter

step 7: cross fingers and try to start it. at this point if it starts how long should I let it run? and if it sounds ok ill attempt to load it onto the trailer. If not, I dont have a winch but I will have my father in law, brother in law and a good friend to push it on the trailer.

Anything I missed?

PS: Guys, I really appreciate how helpful ya'll have been and thanks for explaining everything. I am very handy and usually a quick learner. I am only trying to double check everything as I have never worked on older cars before. I am pretty excited I am not gonna lie, and I hope it all goes well. oh and get ready for all the pics I will take. =)
 
One thing that kind of concerns me is that my father in law said he had to bypass the gas tank to get it running. so he had a small tank of gas sitting in the engine bay going directly to the old carb. I wonder if the gas tank is destroyed. I guess I will check it out next weekend.
 
no need to mark the plugs themselves - but mark the spark plug wires. the wires are in a specific order, and they have to go back where they were - its called the firing order.

if you put a wrench on and the motor turns freely you will know it. it should be pretty free moving.

you only need to put marvel mystery oil (or a small amount of motor oil) into the plug holes if the motor is stuck feeling when you try to turn it by wrench.

you can start the car without the air cleaner on - but detmatt said put it back on so it helps protect from fire coming back up the carb throat so you don't singe your eyebrows off.

you only need a dribble of gas down the carb throat - just a splash.

running the car out of a gas can on the ground could be for a few reasons:
crap in the gas tank.
collapsed/leaking gas line under the car.
sending unit in tank is clogged.
etc.
 
oh and don't set the gas can on the engine bay set it on the ground and get you 6' of fuel line and some hose clamps.

go from the gas can to the fuel pump inlet side, then from FP outlet up to carb. you may need a 6' fuel line from gas can to FP then another 3' piece from FP to carb.
 
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Mini update: I bought a receiver hitch from craiglist since I only had a ball off the bumper. Also got the carburetor in the mail and came with 2 gaskets one for the bottom and one for the top. Reading the instructions it says I should replace the fuel filter as well. Is this necessary since I'm bypassing the gas tank?
 
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