Fitech EFI

The fitech and the sniper are both great units, and are not some finicky contraption that constantly needs messed with. Most issues are user based, and not hardware based. I have beat into the GROUND the importance of buying the correct billet distributor, and phasing the rotor, and the other minor accommodations that go into setting one of these up from the get-go. If you get the correct pieces to support the swap, you'll be in good shape, and shouldn't have any issues! Glad to help anyone that needs it.
 
Well I was going to hold off until the project was done but after a 20 min phone call with Johnny from Pace, I'm still moving forward with the project. I still have some reservations but hell, stay tuned.

Update?
 
Seems like every ambitious FI conversion ends up like this.

abandoned-construction-of-a-building-of-armoured-concrete-in-rethimno-bj3a1t.jpg
 

Sorry I never updated this thread, I did put the update in thread I use for updates with my 66.

Checking out a 66 300

Click the above link. I've got right around 700 or so miles on her. I love the Sniper setup. I've just about got the tune perfect. I'm redoing where some lines are run to hide them completely and I'm also doing a front suspension refresh. If I could get a few hours to work on her I'd be just about done. But wife, life and kids take priority.

Seems like every ambitious FI conversion ends up like this.

abandoned-construction-of-a-building-of-armoured-concrete-in-rethimno-bj3a1t.jpg

Not for me!
 
Mine is running good now. Mileage slowly is going up now too, from 7.5mpg to 8.66mpg now...let's hope it keeps climbing.

Are you using fitech or sniper? Once I got in and adjusted trim settings and target afr points my mileage jumped up like crazy. I'm getting 15-16 mixed highway/city right now. I also can't keep my foot out of it and love how it sounds floored so I could be doing better.
 
FITech. I had hoped to get at least 14mpg with this cause my Holley got roughly 11mpg. That's all city driving.
 
Well guys after reading about 150 plus pages of info between FABO and chevelles.com (just there for fitech info) I pulled my order. I want to drive my car not tune it for hours and constantly dick around with it more than I do now. Carbs work and it's enough for me. Sorry to disappoint, but I feel it's the best move.

MOST Wise! A BIG part of the attraction of driving a C body is the fact that until Lean Burn, they were not POLLUTED by computerization. I LOVE computers in certain contexts and applications, but I've NEVER seen any real improvement in automobiles. With GPS, "lojack" and eager millennial bureaucrats with attitude lurking to click a mouse on you, I WON'T permit any modern black box to MISmanage my engine.
 
My mileage is going up a little but i am still having issues starting. It fires up,then dies. Gotta hold the throttle open to start it. I am looking into a fix with decreasing the primeshot, that seems to help. And i gotta chase an occasional "rpm noise" faultcode. Otherwise when the car is running,it performs nice.
 
My mileage is going up a little but i am still having issues starting. It fires up,then dies. Gotta hold the throttle open to start it. I am looking into a fix with decreasing the primeshot, that seems to help. And i gotta chase an occasional "rpm noise" faultcode. Otherwise when the car is running,it performs nice.

Sorry for the late replay. Away on business. It’s interesting that you have to hold the throttle open. Do you have to mash it open? On mine, anything over 60% tsp while cranking puts it into flood clear. I’m still getting mine “right” on crank. One thing I made absolutely sure of was reducing all possible noise on the rpm reference. I went as far as to shield ref line. Maybe over kill but I’ve had no issues.

I haven’t updated my build thread, but I’ve pulled the motor and refreshed to top end a little. New cam (nothing crazy, basically a tow cam for down low grunt) and lifters, new dual plane intake manifold (for more low end compared to the single plane I was running) and rebuilt/freshened up the trans. Also new power brake booster and dual master for safety. It’s amazing how much you can do with the motor out.
 
Well, you know when with a carb you have to blip the throttle open just a tad to start it sometimes? Its like that. Id say probably 5% if even that...i am getting closer and closer to less throttle. If i don't do that, it fires and then dies right away, it just wont stay running at first.
 
Well, you know when with a carb you have to blip the throttle open just a tad to start it sometimes? Its like that. Id say probably 5% if even that...i am getting closer and closer to less throttle. If i don't do that, it fires and then dies right away, it just wont stay running at first.

I wonder if you need more after start enrichment? If it fires on crank then dies out. Just a thought.
 
I wonder if you need more after start enrichment? If it fires on crank then dies out. Just a thought.
I actually just noticed today, while i reduced the primeshot some more, at cold start it fires,goes to 1200rpm,then falls to 500rpm but catches and runs at 1200 or so how it should. This is all in a matter of two seconds or so. I am trying to not touch the crank fuel right now and just see what the prime shot does. I already noticed that it gets harder to start when warm but i have room to add crank fuel for that. I have not quite understood the difference between afterstart and warmup fuel in that system..yet. another really annoying thing,when i put it from drive to park,it revs to 1500 and then slowly decreases to the idle speed. That turns heads all the time *eyeroll*
 
I actually just noticed today, while i reduced the primeshot some more, at cold start it fires,goes to 1200rpm,then falls to 500rpm but catches and runs at 1200 or so how it should. This is all in a matter of two seconds or so. I am trying to not touch the crank fuel right now and just see what the prime shot does. I already noticed that it gets harder to start when warm but i have room to add crank fuel for that. I have not quite understood the difference between afterstart and warmup fuel in that system..yet. another really annoying thing,when i put it from drive to park,it revs to 1500 and then slowly decreases to the idle speed. That turns heads all the time *eyeroll*
Sounds like you have a booster problem, lot of air making RPM rise on brake application, vacuum leak would explain you crap mileage.
My 440- 4speed Charger will double your mileage number, but I'm not sitting at a lot of red lights either.
 
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Sounds like you have a booster problem, lot of air making RPM rise on brake application, vacuum leak would explain you crap mileage.
My 440- 4speed Charger will double your mileage number, but I'm not sitting at a lot of red lights either.
??? Manual brakes.... Yeah my 9mpg is all city.
 
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??? Manual brakes.... Yeah my 9mpg is all city.

Did you ever time the engine with a vacuum gauge?
Seems like your IAC is doing a lot of compensating.
The low mileage points to timing not being what the engine wants.
If I remember you have that goofy timing tab/marks, and the big initial timing.
 
I have tested that before and it has the best vacuum with 32° initial timing... I do t know but thats a little much isnt it? I am running 16° initial with vacuum advance connected to full manifold. That gives me something mid 20s initial timing. I had the same/less mileage when i was running 22° initial plus vacuum adv.
 
Man mine is dead on at 14 with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. I forget what it is with it plugged in but I’m sure it’s close to you.
 
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