70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
HaHa, so true.
How long can this fuel line be
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My 2¢:
If you are really having a hot gas line problem, I don't think that's the way to solve it.
First, you fuel takes on a lot of heat when it passes through the hot mechanical fuel pump. Running the line over the hot area above the exhaust manifold isn't much help either. Let alone the disaster waiting to happen with even a very minor fuel leak in that area.... and you are inviting that type of leak with your gas line running from the vibrating and rocking engine to the fenderwell and back.
Try taking that to a drag strip... You'll get bounced in tech for that set-up.
If you really want to eliminate the gas getting hot, first thing you may want to consider is an electric fuel pump and bypass the mechanical pump. If that's not an option, adding an electric pump to assist pushing fuel will work well at stopping a vapor lock problem. Either way, I'd still run the line in the stock position though and take a look at the "crash" or "rollover" switches to turn the pump off. I believe a Ford F-150 is the junk yard donor of choice for the source of that switch.
Of course, if you really want simple and elegant, there's insulating the fuel line too. A bit of foam pipe insulation will work wonders and do much more than relocating the line. That's what I would do. (and actually have done in the past)
Oh... and one other thing.... Is the manifold heat valve working properly? It isn't by any chance stuck closed is it? I've seen that over heat the intake manifold and cause all sorts of vapor lock problems.
If you are really having a hot gas line problem, I don't think that's the way to solve it.
First, you fuel takes on a lot of heat when it passes through the hot mechanical fuel pump. Running the line over the hot area above the exhaust manifold isn't much help either. Let alone the disaster waiting to happen with even a very minor fuel leak in that area.... and you are inviting that type of leak with your gas line running from the vibrating and rocking engine to the fenderwell and back.
Try taking that to a drag strip... You'll get bounced in tech for that set-up.
If you really want to eliminate the gas getting hot, first thing you may want to consider is an electric fuel pump and bypass the mechanical pump. If that's not an option, adding an electric pump to assist pushing fuel will work well at stopping a vapor lock problem. Either way, I'd still run the line in the stock position though and take a look at the "crash" or "rollover" switches to turn the pump off. I believe a Ford F-150 is the junk yard donor of choice for the source of that switch.
Of course, if you really want simple and elegant, there's insulating the fuel line too. A bit of foam pipe insulation will work wonders and do much more than relocating the line. That's what I would do. (and actually have done in the past)
Oh... and one other thing.... Is the manifold heat valve working properly? It isn't by any chance stuck closed is it? I've seen that over heat the intake manifold and cause all sorts of vapor lock problems.
Oh... and that car with the beer can battery cover, k-mart valve cover wing nuts and copper fuel line.....
Don't take any advice from whoever built that... please...
Don't take any advice from whoever built that... please...
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
The fuel line would run along the top portion of the wheel well, a good distance away from the exhaust manifold. I measured a good several inches in distance (laterally) away, and then 3" or 4" higher than the manifold. The stock location its run now...tightly following the contour of the engine block is much hotter area than atop the wheel well. I'm on the fence when it comes to electric fuel pumps. Yea, on paper that will cure the gas heat problem but I've never used one and have heard various horror stories, and I like to follow the KISS theory. Still, I haven't ruled that out completely, there are several outfits that manufacture pumps that would work well for my application. There are lots of people out there who have rerouted the fuel lines under the hood with no problems whatsoever. I would use all ss braided hoses for the fuel lines themselves.
Not enough room for insulation, esp. coming off the pump and up behind the alternator it is just too tight. Not possible to do unfortunately....THAT would be the best solution.
I don't think the manifold heat valve (butterfly) is stuck closed, the heat problem I'm having isn't that bad. The car will start usually the first time, if not the second. It never overheats no matter how hot it is outside.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
That dude is a local here. He built the car "tongue in cheek" as it were for shows. However, I do admire how he's kept the fuel line away from the engine block itself, but I would not use hard brass/copper tubing along side the fender like he did.
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I think the factory route for the fuel line should be just as good as your proposed route as far as heat is concerned, that's a pretty windy area being behind the fan. These cars were engineered quite well from the factory and years of consistency tells me that if you're having an issue, it lies elsewhere.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
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70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Well, I gotta tell ya, in my experience with this car AND another "c" I had a few years ago (a plymouth with 383 and transplant 440)....its not. Sure as ****....summertime heat comes along and just like clock work, vapor lock. You could bet on it. So while I do not discount your experience, I think the factory could have done much better. So although I have dispensed with most of it in my current car with some of the changes I've already made, I can tell the problem is still there. Its about 92 degrees here today and occasionally, every now and then I can smell gas percolating up in the carb. I want to nail this once and for all.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
This is exactly the way it was before I changed it because it didn't work so well configured this way. I got rid of all the rigid steel, soaks up heat like a sponge.Thank you! A zillion gabillion cars ran perfectly this way.
Stormer
Old Man with a Hat
Just run an inline electric pump. Problem solved & you can then run a regulator which makes your pressure gauge more than just bling.
saylor
Senior Member
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...a-Switch/_/N-8ve9m?itemIdentifier=827879_0_0_
im scared to death of inline addon fuel pumps that are controlled by a toggle switch on the dash or whatever,, but i didnt know about these switches ^^ until today..
im scared to death of inline addon fuel pumps that are controlled by a toggle switch on the dash or whatever,, but i didnt know about these switches ^^ until today..
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70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Yeah, gives you a bit more confidence. I saw a Chevel burned to a crisp because the owner thought he needed and installed electric fuel pump (mild 305 w/4bbl carb....he did't). Just saying gotta be mindful, weigh the pros and cons.
saylor
Senior Member
+1 my homeboys T/A caught fire, the cheap see thru gas filter somehow got a leak around a grommet, and with the pump pressure, it was pissing gas on the coil and top of the engine.. he just finished rebuilding it a couple of weeks ago..after 9 years or so of working on it... 79 T/A 4spd with like a 472 or something insane. he went all steel fuel lines all the way from carb to the tank this time. fuel pump is behind a rear wheel well by tank. has a toggle switch on dash and its wired into the ignition switch - both have to be 'on' for it to pump.
Vapor lock, vapor lock, all this talk about vapor lock over the years and I NEVER had an issue....... IN thirty years of driving, never had an issue with vapor lock. I'm with Stan on this one
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
c'mon now, just because you haven't dealt with means it doesn't happen? Really?
Didnt say that. BUT I hear guys screaming vapor lock frequently and its usually NOT the reason. The car ran fine for forty years, now its hot?
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Yep, that's all I was saying. Make sure your cooling system is at peak performance, no electric fans, stock engine driven fan with the proper shroud, hood to cowl seal in place. Proper tune on the carb and ignition system. As Bryan said before, make sure your exhaust crossover is working properly. Should be know issues.
maybe your fuel pump pushrod is worn down some and your not getting all the travel you should out of the pump.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Yeh. It's vapor lock for sure. Not so bad this time around, but it's happening. Its a heat thing for sure. A 40 year old car doesn't run as well as it did when it was brand new...unless of course its not driven much.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Yeh, most of those things are in place....no shroud however, been trying to score one for a very long time now.
saylor
Senior Member
so there is a pushrod in there in a 383 for the mechanical fuel pump? I just got my fuel pump from summit, and was reading the install instructions... said if you had a pushrod, make sure the arm of the pump goes under it, and to hold it up with a hacksaw blade or screwdriver...
I haven't taken the old one off yet, I was just reading up ahead of time.. I don't want to eff it up...
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