How long can this fuel line be

.no shroud however

bingo!
 
I'm thinking the point is where the shroud encourages the heat to go rather than than overall engine overheating.
 
A shroud would make a big difference. You will go from basically moving a bunch of hot air around the engine compartment and bringing a relatively small amount of outside air in through the radiator to drawing in all fresh outside air through the rad. You may not be overheating but you are likely running hotter then you need to be. It only takes 1 degrees to much to boil your fuel...
 
A shroud would make a big difference. You will go from basically moving a bunch of hot air around the engine compartment and bringing a relatively small amount of outside air in through the radiator to drawing in all fresh outside air through the rad. You may not be overheating but you are likely running hotter then you need to be. It only takes 1 degrees to much to boil your fuel...
I've been trying to score a shroud for sometime now. I know it's conducive to have one in place....finding ones that are not already damaged or bent is difficult. I usually run at 195 although I did see it inch at bit towards 200 degrees once at the end of last summer. If I can find the correct shroud, in decent shape, I would be extremely happy.
 
didnt say that. But i hear guys screaming vapor lock frequently and its usually not the reason. The car ran fine for forty years, now its hot?
thank you!!!

A million CHiP 440's idling all day in the median strip in 95 degree weather had no problem...
 
You will never convince me that all this talk about curing your vapor lock was solved by rerouting the fuel line incorrectly...
Bad science.
 
The factory routing for the fuel line is the best ..... Vapor lock is not uncommon and is usually an air flow issue, (or lack of air flow).
You can add a lot of length to a gas line and not effect pressure but your just avoiding the real problem. Besides... More gas line will increase the chance of failure. And using rubber line is asking for trouble. Rubber line should only be used where flexability is an issue. I'll only use metal type filters also, no glass or plastic.

The old Ford flatheads were prone to vapor lock on very hot days.... Tin foil and wooden clothes pins on the line to the carb would fix that. Just need a heat sink.

A low pressure electric pump will do the job but should be mounted near the gas tank. The mechanical pump will "pull" fuel ok but electrics are designed to "push" fuel. Again, an electric pump in the engine compartment is asking for trouble.

Big block fuel pump rod.......? Add a dab of grease to the shaft and slide it up. It will stay in place long enough to get the fuel pump in place.
 
It makes no sense, moving the line may make it work but wont resolve the problem
It's just a number of different ideas bouncing around. I may do it or may not...I have not decided yet. I have all fuel/pressure rated hose from the pump to an Edelbrock elbow that connects to the AVS carb, and a spacer plate under said carb which all together made a REALLY big difference last summer, but as I said its starting to get hot here and the problem seems to be reappearing.......somewhat.
 
Why can you not find a shroud? Is it the same as an Imp? I have an extra one that you can have, if so.

I'm going electric on my 72 but I'm also going throttle body. After reading this thread I'm gonna add a fuel pressure safety switch though just before the throttle body. No fires for me thank you. There's just not much worse that can happen to a car than a fire.
 
I agree that routing is bad and will only mask the problem I believe its in the tune on the engine due to age and today's modern fuel (vaporized easier). I would set initial timing, idle no vacuum advance at 13-14 maybe more depending on how far off mark is on dampener 2 degrees advanced is common if you have it set to factory specs which are conservative your later than that of course any pinging you will need to back down. You will be amazed at difference
 
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