How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

Both are excellent engineering fixes!!!

I tried other methods (including wood dowels etc). The big issue with the brake line/ hose repair is time and uniformity of the individual pucks you make. These things are small and the frustration that builds was too much for me. The nuts work forever and take seconds to install.

If you have a day to fuss making pucks- go for it. But it's time you'll never get back for something that works no better than the steel nuts.
 
I will likely continue to go with the nuts for that very reason, bulletproof.
 
That is a great idea - I machined copper pucks for my wagon's windows 20 years ago. Your method is one hell of a lot simpler.
 
Great post Mr. C! I've had issues with one of the headlight door motors on my lotus and now I've got a more permanent fix!
Now if only you can come up with a fix for my roof seals on my 78 NYB.... i need those BAD... hehe
 
Great post Mr. C! I've had issues with one of the headlight door motors on my lotus and now I've got a more permanent fix!
Now if only you can come up with a fix for my roof seals on my 78 NYB.... i need those BAD... hehe

X1 million on that!!!! I need two sets right now!
 
I've got two motors that I bought for the Imperial a while back. These will be the perfect motors to modify with the nuts option. I'm going to do that and install them in the Imperial over the next week or so. Very cool!
 
A very useful post

:laughing4:I have been fighting with these window motors for 2 years replacing motors is an absolute pain. Thankyou so very much.
 
Nice! I just did my passenger side door before I saw this post. I ended up ordering a new Dorman gear assembly (comes with nylon pucks) off ebay. Will post pics soon.

Now working on R quarter window - I got the car w/o motor installed, only a "rebuilt" motor in an A-1 Cardone box *shutter*.

What gauge are the wires going to the motor? I need to find spades and a connector block for the rear quarter window motor now, as the rebuilt motor doesn't have terminals on the wires to connect to the body harness connector (pictured below).

photo.jpg
 
courtesy of ebay...

The reason I had to go with a completely new gear set was because the metal spur gear had a missin' tooth. When that spot came around on the regulator gear, the regulator would drop!

As stated these have nylon "pucks" which are pretty solid. I think they function like a shock absorber to the motor when the regulator reaches its limits of travel. What were the original pucks made of?

Dorman Gear.jpg


dorman-gear-2.jpg


dorman-gear-3.jpg


dorman-gear-4.jpg
 
Also just found this little gem on ebay.

The damn motor from A-1 Cardone that I got with the car came without a gear and gear cover plate. What's up with that? So, deep into my project, had to stop and look for more parts. Thankfully this one popped up.

NAPA window parts.jpg
 
The original pucks were plastic and did have some give to them. That's why in the instructions using the nuts, I mention that the gear needs a bit of play to it.

Even buying Ebay parts like you did, those plastic pucks are how many years old? Sorry to say, but there's no telling how brittle they've become and how long they'll last before you need to do the puck replacement.

I hope it works out for you.
 
On a safety note....

Those plastic pucks were designed to fail if your kid got his head stuck in the window. The steel nut fix (which I have in all 4 of my doors) will probably squash junior's coconut.
 
Power window repair ("pucks")

Place rebuilt clutch.
Ensure it's well lubricated between the outer clutch and the threaded gear in the motor housing too.
Replace cover with the Phillips screw.
You're done...better than new!

Note: You should be able to grab the gear and hmove it a bit after assembly..as mentioned sixteenth to eighth of an inch play is enough.

I hope it was useful.

What a Great Idea,,,Thanks,,,Photos are Very clear,,
 
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