HURST rear Shocks.

Mopar001

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I have seen pictures of rear shocks on the HURST. A lot have been the style WITH springs built onto the shocks. Which are factory correct, WITH springs or WITHOUT springs? The car now has air shocks which I am getting rid of. Probably will replace the rear leaf springs at the same time. They seem to be sagging a lot.
 
My guess is no springs on the shocks but let the experts here give the definitive answer. I have air shocks on the back of my Fury and actually like them. With coil over shocks unless they have an adjustable perch you are stuck with the ride height. Same to with new leaf springs unless you have adjustable shackles. If you have a show car then that is a different ball of wax. Air shocks seem to give a nice ride [if not pumped up too much] and it is nice to be able to change the rear end height.
 
Without springs is correct. Good idea losing the air shocks.
I'll say it again, shocks are not designed to support vehicle weight. That's the springs job. Shocks do just that, control joust. Take a good look at the upper shock mount/crossover sometime. Do you want to place your vehicles weight on that....?
I tow a small vintage camper with my 69 Fury suburban. After trying several spring/shock combos I settled with one extra "main" leaf in the spring and coil over shocks. Rides a little stiff without the trailer on, but perfect when towing.
 
i thought hijackers on a mopar was a big no-no... doesnt it blow out the top shock tower mount and stab thru or something?

try not to die -

- saylor
 
i thought hijackers on a mopar was a big no-no... doesnt it blow out the top shock tower mount and stab thru or something?
Any air shock to raise ride height is a no-no. The top mount bracket will suffer in a short time. They are OK for short period overload conditions.
 
Well point taken and I will look into this. Why would they be "ok for short period overload conditions"? Wouldn't that be the straw that could break the camel's back? I understand your point as the weight of the rear of the car is now being constantly supported by the shock points and these points were only designed to absorb transient shock. Is that correct? On my Fury when the air shocks are empty I add just enough air to raise the rear by one inch or so.
So I would think a big reason for failure would be how much weight total you are taking off the leaf springs and placing on the shock mounting points and never use airshocks or coil over shocks to carry heavy loads. Not trying to be argumentative here just thinking this through.
 
I have the coil over shocks on the 1979 New Yorker. They appear correct height and do not have a bouncey feel as the ones that are placed over the shock as an afterthought.

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Not that it's right, but I've run air shocks for years with no Ill effects.. just replaced a set with a new set.

I'm not jacking the *** up high. Just a little help for the 40 year old Springs..
 
Coil-over shocks are used by those of us who have weak leaf springs but don't want to pay the money to replace them. Standard shock for your car will not have them.
 
im going to defer to the old men with hats.

i ran hijackers on a 68 cougar for years and years - no issue at all. and i was trying to make the assend sit as high as possible.

i just heard/read somewhere, prolly on this forum, that on mopars, it is instant death to the shock mounting spot on top. whatever i saw/heard/read made it sound like the next thing that happens is the shock is sticking up out of the trunk floor...

secondhand hearsay on all this - never seen it or had it happen to me.

- saylor
 
I have nothing against getting new leaf springs and normal shocks but worry the car will sit all wrong and I can't do anything about it other than spend alot more money. Most often when I see a car with new rear leafs ,if it is off it is too high in the rear and looks odd. Gonna have to open up my factory manual and see what's up.
 
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It states all models. Doesn't mean it's ok I know.
 
I have nothing against getting new leaf springs and normal shocks but worry the car will sit all wrong and I can't do anything about it other than spend alot more money. Most often when I see a car with new rear leafs ,if it is off it is too high in the rear and looks odd. Gonna have to open up my factory manual and see what's up.

Get your new springs from these guys. Tell them you want the stock height. Leaf Springs, Coil Springs and Suspension | ESPO Springs n Things

I'm kind of fussy about it and they got it right for my car.
 
I have seen pictures of rear shocks on the HURST. A lot have been the style WITH springs built onto the shocks. Which are factory correct, WITH springs or WITHOUT springs? The car now has air shocks which I am getting rid of. Probably will replace the rear leaf springs at the same time. They seem to be sagging a lot.

As has been said, your car would have shocks with no springs. I did my 70 300 vert with springs from these guys. Leaf Springs, Coil Springs and Suspension | ESPO Springs n Things

When you change the springs, be careful taking apart the shackles. No one (to my knowledge) offers replacement shackles that will work. Cut the nuts off with a nut splitter if you have to.
 
If you feel that pumping up air shocks is the solution to raising your dragging ***, you can do it far more cheaply by jamming a short length of 2x4 up there.
Same thing. Really.
 
Like anything, air shocks, when used with moderate pressure will likely not cause any serious damage.
When a production vehicle is subjected to over load conditions beyond normal use, such as hitch tongue weight or heavy loads, then suspension mods may be necessary. Overload springs should be the first choice. Then shocks, either coil over or air shocks to compensate. I just don't recommend air shocks. A shock or line failure under pressure can be catastrafic.
The price for overload springs is higher ride height. A longer than OEM shock may also be necessary. I am considering replacing the coil over shocks on the Admiral with a pair of HD gas shocks without the coil spring and with a longer travel, (Imperial shocks, I think). Although all is fine while towing there is a hard ride over obstacles such as speed bumps and RXR crossings when not towing
.
I keep a close eye on the Admirals rear cross member for signs of fatigue.
 
Not sure how others feel, but I thought the factory ride height in the rear was a bit too low for the best stance. When I order new leafs for my cars, I specify 1" higher ride height for the back to look good to me.
 
Ok ,,thanks for that. I understand now bluefury. Next question is what does Commando want me to do with a short length of 2 by 4 and jam it where exactly? :wideyed:
 
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