Jakes 383 rebuild
- Thread starter jake
- Start date
has2bmopar
Senior Member
The compression ring gaps should be on the thrust side of the piston and I put the oil ring gaps on the opposite side.
I space the gaps a bit farther apart; closer to, but not completely to 10 and 2 in relation if the pin was at 3 and 9.
No gaps other than the oil spacer ring should have their gap near or above the wrist pin ends.
I space the gaps a bit farther apart; closer to, but not completely to 10 and 2 in relation if the pin was at 3 and 9.
No gaps other than the oil spacer ring should have their gap near or above the wrist pin ends.
Has anyone used this tool to remove the springs on the head while it is on the car along with compressed air. I have dual valve springs and I have to break in the cam with the inner spring removed and install it after. I do not want to remove the heads once I put the motor in the car. Thanks.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Its an okay tool lot of screwing and unscrewing. That can kit you mentioned is a lot like 383-440 magnum cam and does not need double springs sure your not talking about the dampener, a flat spiral inside the spring itself, it has no appreciable spring rate and would be okay to leave. Usually don't go to double vavle springs until a solid cam.
Pete
New Member
Good work, enjoyed the read.
That is exactly what it is. What is the purpose of the dampener spring? You just saved me a ton of time and energy, I owe you a beer!!!
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Well hope it makes up for giving you crap about piston rings that I got schooled on even though I don't agree with them 100%. It just keeps harmonics, and deflection in check at higher rates and engine speeds.
Did some exhaust porting, since I am going to keep the 1.60 valves. Turned out ok. Picked up the valve spring compressor for 10 bucks and welded a nut onto it. Very happy with it, because I can use a drill with it now. Cleaned up the heads and should be able to piece them together sometime this week.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I am enjoying the crap out of this thread. I'm glad you started it.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Don't the rings come with a sheet telling you where to position them on the piston? I was thinking 10 and 2 like previously said for top and sec ring and oil control gaps at 8 and 4 with spacer at tdc
No, just explained ring gaps.
I just hope the dam thing works when I put it back in the car!
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
So long as the gaps don't line up you will be fine. If guys where putting them together on Monday mornings, after a Red Wings game goes into double overtime, or late on Fri afternoon before a long weekend, and they stayed together. Lol
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
That is what I was talking about. Most of the piston rings come with paperwork telling you where to position the ring gaps on the piston
No, all they had was the measurements for the gaps themselves, not the position of the gaps.
has2bmopar
Senior Member
The compression ring gaps should be on the thrust side of your pistons. It's the side that the piston is forced against on the power stroke, which is the passengers/right side of the cylinders.
If you look at your old pistons you will notice the wear is greater on one skirt than the other... :yes:
If you look at your old pistons you will notice the wear is greater on one skirt than the other... :yes:
Well I was able to lap the valves and put the heads together today. Got the cam and timing chain in. Went to go have my exhaust manifolds sandblasted but the shop does not do individual customers, just companies, so I will have to come up with something.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Your getting further than I am with my stuff. I should probably start a thread of the rest of my body, paint, and assembly on my Barracuda then you guys can guilt me into working on it.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
If you want us to guilt you into it, we don't need pictures. Is it done yet??
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