Just want to confirm these are proper timing instructions for new dist.

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    Have a 68 Chrysler newport 383. Am installing a new pertronix III distributor. I want to do it all myself and just want to confirm I'm doing things right.

    *Pull cylinder 1 spark plug and move the piston until its right at the top and I can reinstall the plug.
    *Pull the dist cap with wires still attached and make sure the rotor is pointing at #1 also.
    *make sure to mark things or take pics etc.
    *pull the distributor and put the new one in

    This is where I want to specifically confirm:
    For initial idle timing I leave the vacuum plugged in, correct? I want to advance to around 14 degrees. Once that is set I unplug the vacuum from dist and plug the hose, rev engine to 3500 and then confirm total timing?
     
  2. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    #1 at tdc on the compression stroke. Hold your finger over the spark plug hole as you’re clicking the engine over and just before tdc it will blow your finger off the hole. That happens every other time the piston is at tdc.
    I’m not familiar with this setup as I’ve only run the standard Pertronix and you have to bypass the ballast resistor if you’re changing from points.
     
  3. stubs300

    stubs300 Senior Member

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    Honestly, wherever the rotor is pointing when you remove the cap with the old dist. You can install the new dist. with the new rotor pointing in the same position as the old, then fine tune your timing from there. Good luck
     
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  4. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Is this a 2BBL or 4BBL engine? Factory spec on the 2BBL is different than the 4BBL for timing due to the lower compression ratio for the 2BBL engine. You should leave the vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged to set the base timing so there is no potential error from the vacuum advance. 14 degrees base timing will probably be pushing the envelope, since the both the 2BBL and 4BBL engines were leaned down to pass emissions for '68 and today's moonshine blend gasoline has lower octane ratings and different flow parameters. . This mainly applies if the stock carb is still in place, but the 10-1 compression ratio on the 4BBL will struggle with today's gas. I would suggest starting at 5 degrees and going up in two degree increments. You need to read the literature that came with you ignition system to see where the total advance is set from Pertronix and what RPM range is needed to get to total advance. Running the engine to that number should give a pretty clear picture as to what the total advance is going to be and you can adjust from there. The distributor advance is also adjustable, follow the unit instructions to change those settings if necessary.

    Dave
     
  5. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    This is a factory 4 barrel hp upgraded to a fitech fuel injection. The shop that helped me install said when I get a new distributor to set it to 14. Has a mild cam, nothing else. I previously added the under cap pertronix but just decided to upgrade the whole thing and will sell the under cap pertronix I have.
     
  6. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    For what particular reason? Was it not working correctly? I have my timing set at 12° and I'm using the Accel XR700 (now Fireball) which is the same setup as the Pertronix. Runs fine without any issues. How many miles have you put on this car since you got it?
     
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  7. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    Vacuum advance is worn and I had some money available to put towards worn parts so decided to upgrade the whole distributor and vacuum advance. This is the last thing I'm doing to the engine aside from replacing some gaskets.
     
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  8. halifaxhops

    halifaxhops Well-Known Member

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    Tell you what if is just the vac advance and the distributor work fine otherwise keep it to save some $$.
    I prob have a NOS/NORS vac advance if needed. Just need the number on the arm and which one is it straight or curved.
     
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  9. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    Too late. Already have the new distributor. Ready to install. I think I can install it fine. I'm just holding off until I'm confident I have the timing process down. Still not confident yet.
     
  10. halifaxhops

    halifaxhops Well-Known Member

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    Pretty easy really. Have a FSM?
     
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  11. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    I do but it feels like trying to read Chinese on my computer
     
  12. stubs300

    stubs300 Senior Member

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    Well then, you need some more Basic Auto Repair 101 if you haven't figured it out yet!
     
  13. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    OK. Well I'm just asking for clarification if my process is right. kinda getting off track. I could've read this out of the FSM and I still just want to confirm I'm reading it right.
     
  14. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    You don't need to worry about the distributor being in any particular spot, just set the new one so the rotor is in the same spot as it was when you removed the old distributor. Then fire it up and set your timing. Follow the instructions for whatever else the Pertronix needs, and you should be done with that part of the equation .
     
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  15. The Goose

    The Goose Senior Member

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    That’s the beauty of owning a Mopar. None of that oops I’m one tooth off BS. Just yank it and throw the other one in w the rotor pointing in the same direction. Worst case it pops on startup because you can only install it dead on or 180° out (backwards). If it pops loosen the dist pull it up enough to spin it 180° and you’re done. My lazy self carries an extra distributor in the trunk because it’s faster to swap than the points in the dark (by Braille installation method). Good luck don’t overthink it and just do it. Its literally a 15 min job.
     
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  16. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    Thanks. Its just the timing I'm concerned about. If I only need to adjust the base timing I'm good. Its doing whole out timing I get concerned about
     
  17. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

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    Just disconnect the vacuum advance hose at the carb or distributor, put a screw in the open end of that hose, so it doesn't leak vacuum. After you install the new distributor (as previously described here), start the engine and set the timing to 12 degrees. You may hafta adjust the timing up or down, depending on whether or not the engine pings when you drive it.
     
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  18. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    I think I've got it. Thanks. Ill report back soon
     
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  19. notsosan

    notsosan New Member

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    Golf tee works perfect for plugging vacuum lines.
     
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  20. John Kirby

    John Kirby Member

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    14 degrees may be too much.The engine will run great parked but when you put it in gear and step on the gas it will start pinging. Starting out with 5 degrees or so and advancing a couple degrees until it pings then back off is what I typically do.