My new `67 Imperial Crown Coupe!

Actually, it shouldn't come as a surprise. I think we are the first generation of owners that actually REPLACE THEM...
 
These still feel fine which is why I didn't separate them to do the lca bushings but after cleaning them up I find one of them to have a tear in the boot. I'm pretty sure I can just replace the boot(s).
 
As an Imperial psa, if you just need to replace the boots only on your lower ball joints buy the ball joints shown below for about 16 bucks each, the boots fit perfectly!:thumbsup:
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I did manage to get the lca's back on and was in the process of putting the calipers back in place when I noticed some seepage around one of the pistons so I'll have to take it back to the rebuilder(good thing they're local). Then I figured I better pull the trigger on new rotors as the old ones have fallen below spec which is probably not ideal for the freshly rebuilt calipers.
 
I'm thankful I was able to get these without spending a fortune.
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Looks good Matt. How thick are them new rotors?
 
I noticed the FSM recommended marking them before separating from the spindle. Then I've noticed my 67 and 68 both have yellow crayon on one stud and circling one hole in the rim. To think this whole setup was dynamically balanced from the factory is a great testament the quality and time that went into these cars.
 
Well it's all back together and I took it for a spin and just when you think a car can't drive any smoother it proves me wrong yet again. So now the front suspension and brakes are completely redone and I evacuated the brake system of the old fluid and replaced with DOT 5 silicone based fluid. When I was doing the upper control arm bushings and ball joints last year the passenger side ball joint wouldn't torque so I had to spot weld it in. I wasn't happy about that but it's not unusual and if these Chinese made replacement joints were made with some gusto it would have been fine but they're not. When I tried to add grease to it it would come out around the top of the joint so I was pretty disappointed and immediately wanted to replace the whole arm but I didn't happen to have one handy so I just kept driving it for the rest of the season. This year since I had the LCA's off for new bushings I was determined to not replace the original ball joints because with the exception of the 50 year old boots there was really nothing wrong with them and even if they are a little worn they're still better than new replacements. I regret replacing the uppers with new junk.:BangHead:
So the new lower bushings are in and I'm reassembling and I can't stop looking at that welded in upper and that's when I saw Dana's ad for his '68 Imp part out. I grabbed both UCA's off of him on the chance that the ball joint on that arm was still serviceable with only 80K miles on it. Dana thought that it was and I agree with him, it just needed a new boot. So I pulled my boogerd up UCA off, popped the old bushings out of the doner arm, popped the new bushings out of my original arm and installed them into the doner. Put the doner upper arm on and the whole thing only took a little over an hour and man do I feel better about the whole job.:thumbsup:
Now I can finally move to the rear suspension which was shot when I took possession 5 years ago. Oh and the gas tank, radiator, steering linkage.....
 
I'm tired of junk parts and poor service. I had my steering pump rebuilt by Lares and leaks like a sieve. I'm going to buy a rebuilt
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cardone pump and see if it will work. on another subject, we were at a small swap meet and I picked up these corner lights. If anybody needs them, I'd like to trade for or toward some rebuildable power window motors
 
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