Other electrical issues

[Senator Leahy]

So far this is what I got, gas gauge doesn't work (new sending unit, ground strap and voltage regulator), the wiper motor makes a clicking sound when in the "ON" position (wipers work but when the switch is off they just stop), back-up lights flicker then go off, then come back on and repeat the same process, I replaced all of the bulbs in the dash, voltage regulator, and the fuses, and sometimes the dash light work, sometimes they don't, the spot for the A/C fuse in the fuse block is blown/melted out but when i put the circuit tester on it it works. Lets see...what else...replaced the bulbs in the tail lights, now one of them is out, i pulled the after-market "JC Penny" radio out because it didn't work (pretty sure someone crossed some wires), there's a black wire from behind the steering horn switch that isn't connected to anything, cant figure out what it plugs into. Some one out there please if you could help me work out a few of these things and point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!!!! I know a lot of this stuff is pretty vague on what is going on, I've checked for continuity to most of these things, power, burned traces, etc. but any help would be great to give me an idea on whats going on.

 

[BillGrissom]

All standard problems. You need a wiring diagram. They are simple to read, compared to those in newer cars. I'll hit a few that rang a bell:

Instrument Vreg. In early cars (bad boy, you didn't tell us your car), the Vreg is built into the fuel gage, at least I think true, since A-bodies were like that. I put an after-market fuel gage in my 65 C-body long ago, so fixing my cluster is still TBD.

The wiper motor should have a Park position. That is a separate switch built into the motor. I haven't opened one, but I recall posts somewhere showing that you can fix it. It might just need cleaning the contacts.

The flickering rear lights is probably just bad ground connections. That is made thru the metal bulb holders. A little sanding and silicone grease might fix it. If not, maybe your head-lamp switch which should be cheap (rockauto, $11 same one for decades). Otherwise, check the "body connector" behind the driver's kick panel.

Does your horn work? The black wire runs up the column to the roller on your turn signal switch, which contacts the "horn switch". Pressing the horn grounds the black wire, which actuates the "horn relay" in the engine bay. Use a "steering wheel puller" to see. Even if the horn switch grounds it to the steering shaft, it won't get grounded if the metal jumper around the rubber coupler on the shaft (in engine bay) is broken, since the shaft bearing sits in a rubber isolator.

The radio hookup is real simple - red wire is power, ground is thru chassis. The orange wire is for the lamp. Output is 2 wires with spade lugs to the dash speaker (grn & grn/blk I recall). Of course prior owners probably had at the factory radio and might have even hacked holes in your door panels.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Wow, I'm not even going to try and diagnose the problems. You need to pick one and chase it from the battery to the bulb; every connector, every switch.

If you do not have the Factory Service Manuals, stop do not pass go till you get one.

If you have one or when you get one make copies of the wiring diagrams and trace the circuit, battery to bulb.
I did this for my 1970 Dodge truck...

Then with a meter you start and the battery and check every point along the way

But as for your problems, instrument problems are often related to the voltage limiter, on some cars it is in the gas gauge.
Back up lights could be a loose switch.
The wiper motor may be toast or needs to be adjusted.
Grounding problems are often the cause of some issues.

Alan

 

[Senator Leahy]

Thanks guys, sorry for not telling you what I have, it's a 65 New Yorker. I have the FSM and the wiring diagram so I'll go thru and check everything. Must have missed something. Thanks for the info

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