So far as I dig deeper into my 383
- Thread starter FuryDan66
- Start date
So guys if I went with a aftermarket intake would I have to drill bolt holes to mount my coil and so on. Just kinda lost on what to do. I did find a Weiand 8008 that looks like might be a good fit and allow my coil to work. I did find a stock one painted orange but I see there's a area that I may have find or make a block off plate for ?
The stock one shown will not need a block off plate, that's the well the choke element sits in. Some will have an EGR opening, those will need a block off plate = it's a direct vent to the intake plenum.
Take a real close look at traintech pictures and you will see the difference, someone have did it all way wrong on your linkage.
Remove the little screw in the slot and load the slot at the opposite position with a spring, the KD linkage must follow throttle position, at WOT it should be almost at full load on the transmission. The slot is there becasue if something happends to the transmission the carb wouln't stay at WOT when you let of the pedal.
In some cases when you go from 2bbl to 4bbl you must lenghten the linkage at the carb to get the right geomethric, it all depence on how much you can adjust the linkage. It's very important to get the right adjusted KD linkage to get right shifting points and as many has described, the KD linkage is a matter of fact a pressure regulator, if you get it wrong you'll fry your transmission or blow some gaskets.
There's many instructions how you adjust KD linkage on a 727, just google it, but you must have the right geomethric to start with.
Just my 2cent...
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
There is very thorough and detailed procedure laid out in the FSM you should use to perform this critical adjustment.
That's right, no need for anything other than the 'bathtub' gasket as long as you're using stock parts.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Yes but I would strongly suggest, thread sealant (pipe dope) on the bolts, I usually use permatex aviation sealant/high tack around the ports and exhaust crossover and I use ultra black rtv on the end and transition areas from block to head not a ton just enough to make sure it does not leak/suck air/suck oil etc.. My 2 cents.
Also adjust transmission linkage so that it is all the way to the stop at WOT.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
RTFM !!
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Hold the pedal to the floor, helper, stick, whatever. Loosen and adjust throttle cable sheath clamp(on bracket) pull cable rearward till throttle plates are fully open, tighten down clamp. Tighten or loosen the kick down linkage to just allow the slot to make it onto the pin (rear of slot), should be tight/snug. Giving you the most line pressure at WOT. Put the springs and clips back on and release the pedal/helper.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Dan: Don't get yer panties in a bunch over my sarcastic remarks. Please remember: this place is just a cartoon. Also, I agree the manual is sometimes so exact with respect to its terms and language, it is at first confusing. If you take your time and read the manual a few times regarding the adjustment procedure, it will finally sink in.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Dan, I still get confused in certain things I read in the FSM. Usually it's so simple, I'm over thinking it. As Rip said, reread it a few times, look it over while reading it if their is no illustration, and then do whatever task it is your doing.
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