The infamous RV2

[Justin Plant]

I've read various threads on this and other sites about this compressor. I want to try and rebuild mine, I have acquired books and torque specs, I have located (although yet to purchase) each possible piece. My question is does any one know of a kit number that contains all needed to rebuild one. I just don't want to tear it down and missed something. Seems like Chrysler would've sold a "hardware" kit for a lack of a better term.

Thanks in advance,

 

[thethee]

Following

 

[CBODY67]

As for genuine Chrysler Parts, they are in the front of the parts book, under "Packages" in the "PK" pages prior to the Group 1, Accessories section. I looked in the 1974 parts book, just to see what was there at that point in time.

From the part number sequences, it appears that some have the original 1950s-decade parts numbers on them. No unified "rebuild" kit as such, but the individual parts you might need to rebuild things . . . IF still available at this "late date".

What might you need? Piston and Rod packages (plus the piston ring packages, if not with the piston and rod package), the "reed" plate packages, gas seals, various gaskets and seals, mostly.

As good as the RV2 compressor was, plus the York and Tecumseh compressors which Ford used, all of them were POWER hogs for what they were. If you are running R134a gas, it might be well to consider upgrading to a Sanden item for less power consumption and equivalent cooling. Even back then, it was a common knowledge item that any non-cycling OEM factory air system was worth 2mpg in fuel consumption on trips. But as gasoline was in the 30cent/gallon range, no problem as long as we were cool. BTAIM

As for keeping your OEM RV2, you might check the rebuilders (as Four Seasons) and see if they have a unified rebuild kit they can sell you. Seek out a new EPR valve, too!

Good luck
CBODY67

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Okay, I'll ask the obvious: Why do you want to rebuild the compressor? What's not working for you? Is it seized (toss it)? Is it not giving you 200+ psi discharge pressure (broken reed valve)? Is it leaking at the ceramic seal (Freon gone, oil leaking into clutch)?

The pistons and rings last forever (the pistons only have one prehistoric-design ring, so seal isn't important like it is in an engine). The bearings last forever unless the oil was pumped out by refrigerant pressure somewhere. The front (ceramic) seal is problematic, but unless it's obviously leaking, changing it is even more problematic.

I know of no rebuild kit. You'll have to chase OEM part numbers across the InterWeb, but Sanden does sell the ceramic seal as a new item.

So again....why?

Ceramic seal

 

[volksworld]

cause the compressors weren't 50 years old when Chrysler supplied parts for them so they didn't require a ''rebuild kit''...you just fixed what was broken and moved on...definitely go for the new Santech seal rather than a rusty nos one...i think the places that rebuild them are hoarding the parts...

 

[Justin Plant]

Okay, I'll ask the obvious: Why do you want to rebuild the compressor? What's not working for you? Is it seized (toss it)? Is it not giving you 200+ psi discharge pressure (broken reed valve)? Is it leaking at the ceramic seal (Freon gone, oil leaking into clutch)?

The pistons and rings last forever (the pistons only have one prehistoric-design ring, so seal isn't important like it is in an engine). The bearings last forever unless the oil was pumped out by refrigerant pressure somewhere. The front (ceramic) seal is problematic, but unless it's obviously leaking, changing it is even more problematic.

I know of no rebuild kit. You'll have to chase OEM part numbers across the InterWeb, but Sanden does sell the ceramic seal as a new item.

So again....why?

View attachment 612822

Ceramic seal
View attachment 612825

Well, I pulled a vacuum on the system. It held, I dropped my gauges so the number didn't read 28 inches but it held steady at 25. I put two cans of r134 in it. It was dead empty, I pushed both high and low side valves to see if there was anything left in the system. The clutch engaged as it should. The needles equalized at 200 I think. Zero cold on the low side line and of course nothing but hot air out of the vents. My thought was either rings, which i have found with new piston and rods, or reed valves. Seems silly to replace one without the other. However the reed valves, when replaced, would let me know if the bottom end is any good. Or so goes my thinking.....

 

[commando1]

It literally takes about an hour to do a Sanden conversion. That's my two cents.

 

[Boydsdodge]

It literally takes about an hour to do a Sanden conversion. That's my two cents.

Please share your knowledge.

 

[Justin Plant]

It literally takes about an hour to do a Sanden conversion. That's my two cents.

It's a damn site more expensive too.

 

[commando1]

It's a damn site more expensive too.

And worth every penny.

 

[commando1]

Please share your knowledge.

Please do a search here for my Sanden conversion.
It shows the best Sanden model to use.
The Bouchelon brackets that make it almost plug n play.
Make up some new hoses.

 

[kowalski1970]

I've read various threads on this and other sites about this compressor. I want to try and rebuild mine, I have acquired books and torque specs, I have located (although yet to purchase) each possible piece. My question is does any one know of a kit number that contains all needed to rebuild one. I just don't want to tear it down and missed something. Seems like Chrysler would've sold a "hardware" kit for a lack of a better term.

Thanks in advance,

I’m having my 70 Newport RV2 replaced. The cylinder that pulls the Freon through it is stuck. My shop I’m working with recommends changing to the Sanden. The problem is how long will the RV2 last with R134, plus there is a new R1234a hitting the market. He does a lot of restorations and builds with A/C. My had been converted to R134by the previous owner. Just my .02 cents. Inflation!!

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

The problem is how long will the RV2 last with R134, plus there is a new R1234a hitting the market.

The RV2 will last forever with 134, if the correct oil for 134 is used. I'm sure your shop is well aware of this. No worries, unless the previous owner didn't flush the R12 mineral oil out of the system before going to 134. That MIGHT be why your compressor failed, as the two DO NOT mix (endless discussions about this here and all over the Interweb). Please discuss with your shop if a total flush of the system would be a wise move. A new receiver/dryer is mandatory (not expensive, readily available receiver/dryer ) and your shop will know this, too.

 

[kowalski1970]

The RV2 will last forever with 134, if the correct oil for 134 is used. I'm sure your shop is well aware of this. No worries, unless the previous owner didn't flush the R12 mineral oil out of the system before going to 134. That MIGHT be why your compressor failed, as the two DO NOT mix (endless discussions about this here and all over the Interweb). Please discuss with your shop if a total flush of the system would be a wise move. A new receiver/dryer is mandatory (not expensive, readily available receiver/dryer ) and your shop will know this, too.

Thank you! I’m no expert.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Thank you! I’m no expert.

When R12 was banned (January 1, 1996) the cheap 134 conversion kits (basically just larger Schrader valves with the blue and red caps) were in every auto parts store in the nation. Screw 'em on and fill with 134. Easy, right? But nobody (more accurate to say hardly anybody) knew that the R12 mineral oil was NOT at all compatible with the 134 gas. You see, in any AC system, the refrigerant and the oil literally **mix together** in a miscible fluid blend and circulates throughout the system. The oil does not stay in the compressor's oil pan like in a car engine...it's part of the process. So, surprisingly, a specific refrigerant (car, house, refrigerator) has to have the specific oil that it's compatible with, otherwise no mixing together, no circulation throughout the system, no good. 134 with mineral oil makes for a goo, not a fluid that circulates.
Again, your shop knows all this. But now you can certainly ask them about this, so THEY know that YOU know about the issue.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

And before someone corrects me, there IS an oil that's compatible with both 12 and 134, and it's known as PAO. But that's neither here nor there, since you're going with 134. What IS important is the oil that currently remains your the system (condenser, evaporator, hoses and tubing). You don't know if the previous owner thoroughly flushed the system and used 134-compatible oil and you can't tell by looking at it or tasting it or rubbing between your fingers, so that means that your system needs to be flushed (and maybe new o-rings at the couplings?) before the 134 goes in. Then you'll be happy.

 

[kowalski1970]

When R12 was banned (January 1, 1996) the cheap 134 conversion kits (basically just larger Schrader valves with the blue and red caps) were in every auto parts store in the nation. Screw 'em on and fill with 134. Easy, right? But nobody (more accurate to say hardly anybody) knew that the R12 mineral oil was NOT at all compatible with the 134 gas. You see, in any AC system, the refrigerant and the oil literally **mix together** in a miscible fluid blend and circulates throughout the system. The oil does not stay in the compressor's oil pan like in a car engine...it's part of the process. So, surprisingly, a specific refrigerant (car, house, refrigerator) has to have the specific oil that it's compatible with, otherwise no mixing together, no circulation throughout the system, no good. 134 with mineral oil makes for a goo, not a fluid that circulates.
Again, your shop knows all this. But now you can certainly ask them about this, so THEY know that YOU know about the issue.

We had this discussion. They suspect the previous owner may have it done wrong. They know that the RV2 should work fine with 134 and correct parts and o-rings. We all were hoping it would just be recharge. The system is good and sealed from their testing. So just the bad piston/cylinder.