Thinking of buying a smallish utility trailer
- Thread starter tallhair
- Start date
rapidtrans
Senior Member
Just reminded me of a rather exiting exit pulling the sailboat with my K car. Boat started to push the ***-end out going around the cloverleaf at I-75 & M10!
Haven’t bought a utility trailer yet. Wasn’t really thinking of brakes on it. I’ll be pulling it on mostly level roads on highway and rarely on interstate. Primarily hauling 5-600 lbs or less.
I will investigate further on the trailers today and will be looking at receiver hitches and equalizer bars setups too.
Thanks
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
I bought this bad boy new 25 years ago for $750. Can't even imagine how many times it's paid for itself. I have a side business selling 55 gallon barrels and have hauled thousands of them over the years. I've hauled tons (literally) of scrap to the scrap yard, went to many swap meets and not to mention trips to the dump. Couldn't live with out it
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Time to renew the deck on that one.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
It's on my schedule Peter. Right after I paint my truck.
Class 1 is 100# tongue weight and 1000# load. Class 2 is 200# tongue weight and 2000# load. In the old days you could pull a class 1 with a bumper hitch, a class 2 with a frame hitch and of course a class 3 with a heavy duty rated class 3 hitch. You don't need equalizer bars unless you have a class 3 trailer. Class 1 doesn't have brakes.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
My brother has a 5x8, the sides are solid on the bottom foot or so with an open rail above it for another 6"
The solid sides make for easy dump runs or getting a load of gravel.
Alan
The solid sides make for easy dump runs or getting a load of gravel.
Alan
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12,425
- Reaction score
- 8,476
A couple of things to watch for when it comes to the hitch.
- If you have stow and go seats you need a specific hitch
- Make sure it is name brand, not a knock off.
Agree, I am researching those leveling devices. IF I ever use my car hauler again I should probably use one. I don’t have a big 3500, just a 1500.
Car trailer weighs about 3,500 empty IIR. Weighs the 1500 down pretty good with just 3 small blocks.
Illinois really screwed us over on trailer tags, raised Class 3 from $58 to $158 per year!
there’s a recreational trailer tag for $30 one time fee. That’s what this will be. Will have to look up specifics.
Everyone down here has been making the change. Probably will change that too though eventually.
I’ve been looking at the Anderson leveling devices WDH that use chains and a different setup than the older ones.
I’ll post a video of that
I’ll post a video of that
Yep they’re very handy. I’ve been using the only one I have when necessary, car trailer, but too big for van obviously and not as handy as a smaller one.
Yours would be the biggest I’d want to go. Maybe smaller and lighter with mesh floor and use plywood to protect the mesh when hauling heavy stuff, or dirt / gravel etc.
I’m thinking about the side style too. Might make some bolt on or pocket/slide in plywood or sheet metal sides to retain loose cargo like dirt. I plan on doing that to fill some holes.
Would like tires larger than 13”, maybe 15s, but want to keep tire replacement costs down as much as possible.
I would like to be able to use a Mopar car wheel, like cop car wheels, but may go with a mid 90s truck style wheel. I don’t know when bolt patterns change. I should have hung on to some 14” b body rally and road wheels maybe.
Also know 14 and 15 tires are getting less available.
What’s recommendations on wheels and tires to look cool but keep costs under control.
Won’t be hauling super heavy stuff, however I’ve hauled 68-70 b bodies, and once a 58 Chevy 4 door for a friend ... that thing was TIGHT with a 16 foot trailer similar to yours but with dual axle, now that was a handy trailer.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Sorry, but that's not for me. The only upside I see in this is the smaller amount of storage needed when not in use. I'll stick with my Reese torsion bar system, which is also easier to swap out between trailers.
I actually found a Reese Equalizer setup that was a little smaller for SUV's and Vans. I think it was rated to 4500lbs with a 450lb tongue weight. I will see if I can find the model number. As was mentioned above these are designed for Class III and high receivers but I see little point in installing anything less than a Class III on your van.
Reese 66557 Reese Steadi-FLEX Light Duty Weight Distribution Kit (400 lb)
Reese 66557 Reese Steadi-FLEX Light Duty Weight Distribution Kit (400 lb)
Thanks Graham,
I’m leaning toward the draw-tite class 3 made for the vehicle. Less protrusion when not in use than the curt.
I’ll give that look too, I have two other tow vehicles and will have two trailers. The Ram 5 speed, love that truck, squats a bit and haven’t pulled the heavy trailer with the Durango lately but would like some flexibility if I decide to haul something heavy.
Today only 10% off on Lowes gift cards. Just sayin.
Similar threads
