stu’s68furyiiirat
Member
I have a transmission I am rebuilding at the moment how do I clean the drums it’s a small block A727 transmission any help would be great
Transmission questions again on my 68 fury iii
- Thread starter stu’s68furyiiirat
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rags
Senior Member
wire wheel on a bench grinder. i can understand why you're replacing the valve body!
stu’s68furyiiirat
Member
I know I just didn’t want to scare it etc I’m a newbie on transmission etc in general
rags
Senior Member
exactly. wire wheel won't scar it but the wheel has to be aggressive enough to get the rust off. anything left, i'd hit very lightly with a cookie wheel. cookie wheels will cut into the good metal so careful with those. great that you're doing the transmission. so many people are afraid of them and they really shouldn't be.
stu’s68furyiiirat
Member
Just learning as I go and book reading thanks I’ll keep updated on progress
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
I would start with one of the chemical rust removers that doesn't eat metal. You will be going that way in the end because they will get the rust out of the pits that the wheel or sanding won't. Yes, you have pits.
You can tolerate pits on that band drum, but not metal removed from resurfacing.
You can tolerate pits on that band drum, but not metal removed from resurfacing.
stu’s68furyiiirat
Member
Like naval jelly etc
Hot tank will also remove rust. Was this transmission underwater?
Dave
Dave
stu’s68furyiiirat
Member
Not sure it was standing on bellhousing when I got it open tailshaft no covering at all
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Use a soft wire wheel to clean it up then put them in a rust remove solution...Evapo-rust maybe, or look up electrolysis rust removal or using a Molasses/water mix.
stu’s68furyiiirat
Member
Molasses never heard of that removing I’ll try it maybe
rags
Senior Member
looks pretty badly pitted in the second picture. probably pass on the chem's at this point. might want to consider a different transmission if that's an option. this one's looking pretty humble.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
Don't know till it's cleaned up, but it don't look good for the home team.
stu’s68furyiiirat
Member
I agree I just hurried and scuffed them real quick b4 leaving I don’t feel and rough ridges or nothing bad I can probably take Emory cloth or cookies and clean it better
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
The rust removers will take "all" the rust and leave "all" the metal. Before you start with the aggressive stuff that the band ain't gonna like.
I don't like the drum. I suggest another drum.
I don't like the drum. I suggest another drum.
stu’s68furyiiirat
Member
I just don’t want to give up on it just yet I have a poop ton of money in this already I just want to prove to myself I can do it rebuild it and it be quality
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
That drum will eat the band in short order. Unless you put it in a lathe and turn it down and then polish it.
Maybe it's the only hard part you need to get.
Maybe it's the only hard part you need to get.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Surfaces in a trans are supposed to be super smooth. I know you're deep into it, but the person who sold you the trans should have junked/recycled it. If the person had any decency, he'd give you a refund.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I agree that drum is probably beyond saving and will end up costing you a band and another tear down after a few hundred miles, I'm all for saving and using parts and keep the build costs downbut I think it might actually be quicker and cheaper to just replace it now. Just did a quick search on E-bay and you can get a good used drum for around $50, maybe cheaper.
rags
Senior Member
quality's gone out the window with that drum at least. @thrashingcows has it with his suggestion. that or cut your losses and move to another unit. it would be nice to think that there's no corrosion in the passages in the case, but i'd be leery. if i had opened that case and saw what your seeing, i would have stopped right there. @1970FuryConv is on the money also. that thing looks like it came off the core pile.
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