Transmission Id

Joined
Sep 12, 2022
Messages
198
Reaction score
70
Location
Kingsport tn
I bought a small block A727 I think I did not get a torque converter with it I wonder what size 10” or 11” converter stock I like to know the year of transmission any help would be great
Pk 68162 4981 6283 is number on side pictures you can not tell
IMG_3724.jpeg


IMG_3721.jpeg
 
Wire brush it, you are missing some digits. Need 7 digits after the PK

Date 4981 is approximately early 1975
 
Yep, need more digits.

Going by the neutral safety switch, that's a '69 or later. If it's going in a '68 or earlier, you are going to have to get the right plug and wire it so the wire from the starter relay connects to the center pin. The other option is change the switch and the rooster comb inside the trans. You can't just swap the earlier NSS in though.
 
Shape of the pan gasket should verify the "727" family transmission.

Stock converters were usually 11.75", but some used 10.75" converters (usually smaller V-8s or HP V-8s which needed a bit more stall speed). Which engine is it going behind (which will indicate "with" or "without" weights)?

Key issue is whether or not it is a "lock-up torque converter" transmission, which might have a different front pump shaft/mechanism.

CBODY67
 
Shape of the pan gasket should verify the "727" family transmission.

Stock converters were usually 11.75", but some used 10.75" converters (usually smaller V-8s or HP V-8s which needed a bit more stall speed). Which engine is it going behind (which will indicate "with" or "without" weights)?

Key issue is whether or not it is a "lock-up torque converter" transmission, which might have a different front pump shaft/mechanism.

CBODY67
How would I know lockup or what
 
So, if there's any chance (if) we can assume that the PK number is 3681862, then you have a standard duty 727 which was mated to a 318 or 360 in a passenger car. Not heavy duty, and not installed in a truck.... that unit was used in both '74 and '75 which makes member 413's post quite valid.
Actually I find info calling both heavy duty and standard, but there's not a world of difference between them.. Also, NOT a lockup trans.
 
So, if there's any chance (if) we can assume that the PK number is 3681862, then you have a standard duty 727 which was mated to a 318 or 360 in a passenger car. Not heavy duty, and not installed in a truck.... that unit was used in both '74 and '75 which makes member 413's post quite valid.
Actually I find info calling both heavy duty and standard, but there's not a world of difference between them.. Also, NOT a lockup trans.
I’ll look for more numbers when I get home I bought it to put in a 68 furyiii 318 he said it was a 727a
 
You rebuild that trans with good quality internals, you'll find that it's plenty beefy for almost any purpose, and more than enough for what you describe..... The only thing I would double check first is that it is compatible with your shifter mount.... Usually this only comes into play on some console shift vehicles. On any of them, you may need to match the shifter arm and kickdown arm to your particular vehicle.
 
Really, the thing to do is measure what you have and just replace it. You measure the diameter of the converter itself, not the ring gear.

If you want to know if the new trans is a lock-up, count the splines on the input shaft. '67 and up will have 24 splines. '78 and up lockup will have 23 splines.

Chances are it's a 11 3/4 without the lockup.
 
Your 318 will have a steel crank or internally balanced motor, the 74/75 transmission you just purchased the stock converter would be for a cast crank motor so you would need to follow this advice....

Elvad said:
Converter..

Cast crank motors need the weight on the converter. Steel crank motors do not use a weight on the converter. You can use a neutral balance converter (no weight) with a cast crank motor if you get the correct flexplate from B&M racing. A lot of converters now have no weight, Chrysler sells the weight and a template so you can weld it on yourself. (if you need one) I don't personally want to weld a weight on a converter. checkout www.bmracing.com for more info. If a converter with a weight is installed on a motor with a steel crank it will shake noticeably at idle and vibrate pretty good thru low RPM. I have seen this many times. At first you think you are chasing a skip.
 
This from your "new" transmission? Looks like it's sat with water in it for some time and if that's what the valve body looks like the rest is probably worse! I wouldn't even try to run that without a rebuild...so what was wrong with your original transmission?
 
Back
Top