Two Stupid Questions

[68plymouth383]

Maybe some bailing wire also would help..........

I'll use duct tape this time so I know it will hold.

 

[68plymouth383]

Here you go.

 

[Stormer]

That's awesome, Jason.

 

[moonrunner1972]

Disconnect the fuel sender at the tank, turn on the key, note the position of the gauge, ground the sender wire, the gauge should sweep. If it does the sender is bad. If it does not move ck for power with a voltmeter on the sender wire. hope this helps the both of you

Thank you for the helpful advice. I did just that in my you tube video at the following link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rljpbS3jcZo&list=FL398Wy2RSPMDWzhKCYmG3FQ&index=35

As you can see, the arm sweeps completely to the FULL mark on the fuel gauge when it is grounded. As I stated earlier, I have replaced the sending unit three times without any significant improvement. When the tank is full it only reads between 3/4 and 2/3. Does anyone know who makes a quality sending unit or a business that specializes in their repair?

 

[Big_John]

I've never used them, but there is this place: http://tristarrradiator.com/

 

[detmatt]

The repopped senders are nowhere near as good as Ma Mopars originals and I think these guys can rebuild the originals.
http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/index.asp

 

[Stormer]

It's too much coincidence that it stopped working after I bypassed the amp gauge. I just don't think it's getting any juice at all. The needle is on E, clue?

 

[thrashingcows]

It's too much coincidence that it stopped working after I bypassed the amp gauge. I just don't think it's getting any juice at all. The needle is on E, clue?

Maybe after the bypass, and your initial fire up, you had a voltage spike and burnt up the 5V gauge limiter?

 

[bajajoaquin]

Thank you for the helpful advice. I did just that in my you tube video at the following link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rljpbS3jcZo&list=FL398Wy2RSPMDWzhKCYmG3FQ&index=35

As you can see, the arm sweeps completely to the FULL mark on the fuel gauge when it is grounded. As I stated earlier, I have replaced the sending unit three times without any significant improvement. When the tank is full it only reads between 3/4 and 2/3. Does anyone know who makes a quality sending unit or a business that specializes in their repair?

I don't know the page, but there is a lot of stuff on the Imperial car club website archives about fuel senders. I specifically remember reading about fixes for the guagues not reading properly, and the recommendation not to adjust the senders or buy new ones, but to do a sequence of things to fix the actual problem. You should spend some time poking around there to see what you can pull out.

 

[moonrunner1972]

I don't know the page, but there is a lot of stuff on the Imperial car club website archives about fuel senders. I specifically remember reading about fixes for the guagues not reading properly, and the recommendation not to adjust the senders or buy new ones, but to do a sequence of things to fix the actual problem. You should spend some time poking around there to see what you can pull out.

Thanks! Do you have the link to the group?

 

[moonrunner1972]

I found an Imperial website that mentioned something that I may have overlooked. The small ground strap that clamps on the fuel line and on the outlet of the sending unit is the ONLY part I have not replaced. I have conducted several visual inspections of the item and can't seem to see anything wrong with the part. Once I had attempted to purchase a replacement, but the item I received was too short (most likely for another application.) Finding the correct one would be the easy fix. Does anyone have a new spare? :icon_winkle:

 

[bajajoaquin]

imperialclub.com

 

[1970cat]

strip the ends of a piece of wire and clamp it on the fuel line. see if that works first. the sending units are grounded through the fuel line for some reason. you need that ground strap to provide continuity where the rubber hose is.

 

[streetmachine]

On the Charger forums I have read that the wiring is good for around 65 amps is I believe is the safe way to go and anything above that is questionable. One thing to look into is I like the run the ones from a 85-86 Diplomat with a 318. It will say 78 amp online but, the actual output is around 70 amps. The other thing is to convert the amp to a volt gauge. I have also ran an updated cluster voltage limiter with a "short" detector in it as well.

 

[Zymurgy]

Ross this is no help for you, but I read a great article a few years back that tell you how to make changes on the sending unit to get it to read the full range of the furl gauge. I will look it up.

I am having the same problem with my sending unit of only reading 2/3 when full.

 

[pmschmitt]

On the Charger forums I have read that the wiring is good for around 65 amps is I believe is the safe way to go and anything above that is questionable. One thing to look into is I like the run the ones from a 85-86 Diplomat with a 318. It will say 78 amp online but, the actual output is around 70 amps. The other thing is to convert the amp to a volt gauge. I have also ran an updated cluster voltage limiter with a "short" detector in it as well.

This thread has been extremely helpful. I too have the dimming lights and slowing turn signals when I break and an out of whack fuel gauge. I was just about to replace with a 60 amp alt but am gonna try the wire mod first.

 

[Yatzee]

Dude69300 is absolutely right - some rewiring should be considered especially for high amp accessories. In most
cases the charge amperage is sent directly to the positive battery terminal ( or same terminal at the starter ). The
battery acts as a buffer softening current surge.