Wyatt convinced me to destroy my 71...

I saw a post by @david hill on how he cleaned up his windshield using Cerium Oxide Polishing Powder. I called and spoke with him about the process and David mentioned with some patience, the scratches can and will come out as they did on his windshield.
No mention if the process caused any distortion though.
The pic on his post didn't show any distortion, and I'm sure if it didn't turn out nice for him, he would've advised against doing it.
Here is the method used to polish automotive windshields that I use. To begin with if your windshield has rock chips or scratches that can be caught w/ your finger nail moving across the glass or deep scratches. This process won't work. Now the steps and processes if your glass passes inspection. First remove your wipers and cowl trim. Mask off trim and painted surfaces where they meet the glass. Cover the rest of the car w/ plastic film protestant. The Cerium Oxide is abrasive and will scratch paint if not covered. Mix in 2oz. increments. Add water sparingly as you mix to a gritty like water texture. Always have a spray bottle handy to keep the glass surface damp and as well as your buffing pad. Keep your pad and glass surface damp at all times while buffing. Buff at the slowest speed possible and don't apply pressure at all to glass. To much pressure will generate heat causing filmy, cloudy appearance, cloudy laminate between the layers of glass. Buffing should be in a alternating overlapping from top to bottom and side to side. If you have any questions PM me.
 
David, might want to mention that this is done with a power buffer...
Not by hand................. :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Here is the method used to polish automotive windshields that I use. To begin with if your windshield has rock chips or scratches that can be caught w/ your finger nail moving across the glass or deep scratches. This process won't work. Now the steps and processes if your glass passes inspection. First remove your wipers and cowl trim. Mask off trim and painted surfaces where they meet the glass. Cover the rest of the car w/ plastic film protestant. The Cerium Oxide is abrasive and will scratch paint if not covered. Mix in 2oz. increments. Add water sparingly as you mix to a gritty like water texture. Always have a spray bottle handy to keep the glass surface damp and as well as your buffing pad. Keep your pad and glass surface damp at all times while buffing. Buff at the slowest speed possible and don't apply pressure at all to glass. To much pressure will generate heat causing filmy, cloudy appearance, cloudy laminate between the layers of glass. Buffing should be in a alternating overlapping from top to bottom and side to side. If you have any questions PM me.
I did leave out that I used a random orbital buffer w/ a loop cotton latch hook pad.
 
(...) I said I’d list the venders used for this rebuild. Below is a list of most, if not all of them:
(...)
521 Restorations
(...)
What did you buy from them, and are you happy with what you bought? I am considering them for a set of parts for my TNT, and would love your info/feedback.
 
So Tim what kind of progress is being made with this beauty? Can't wait to see it finished!
 
@ayilar . 521 had the brake caliper positioners needed for more than 1 of my fuselage, so I picked up a few sets of them from this place. I may have purchased the bumper bolts from them as well, but I'd have to go back and look through my receipts to confirm that. I must admit, if considering the price they've got listed for 8 bumper bolts, who can go wrong with that?
 
@BLIMP The New Yorker has been away for a long time, but I've gotten pictures of the process and really liked what I have seen so far. There were several areas of the body that needed to be addressed by a professional to make it right. I am confident the guy doing the work fits the bill.
The new windshield is in, the alarm keylock on the DS fender has been removed, a new hood is now on the car, and much more.
Yeah, I know it didn't make the 5th annual C Body Show this year or Carlisle, and I was considering to enter it into the MCACN event next month if it had been completed in time, but they've already got a full house and no more cars can be entered for the show this year anyway. It shouldn't be too much longer before it is back in my hands.
I'll post pics of the car after I have it back from body & paint shop, with the continued reassembly that will be done back at my shop.
 
Hey guys just went through this great thread. Last year I did al the same from front to back with my 71 Sport Fury. I am about to replace the Heater Core still. I found one on FCBO, a nice guy is selling. I am just concerned if it´s still an "old version" that won´t fit properly. Does anybody know if or what AC Global replied after SXPKRT informed them about the miss fit of there HC5777?

Thanks,

F
 
There probably is no realistic way to distinguish the revised version from the final one that fit without taking precise measurements but contact Tim to see if he might recall some distinguishing features of the one that fit.
@sixpkrt
 
There probably is no realistic way to distinguish the revised version from the final one that fit without taking precise measurements but contact Tim to see if he might recall some distinguishing features of the one that fit.
@sixpkrt
That we can agree on, if nothing else about these cores :thumbsup:
 
I just went over this entire thread. Great car! Its really an oddity to see an HP New Yorker 2 door compared to the the standard 350 horse unit. Cool car.
 
Hey guys just went through this great thread. Last year I did al the same from front to back with my 71 Sport Fury. I am about to replace the Heater Core still. I found one on FCBO, a nice guy is selling. I am just concerned if it´s still an "old version" that won´t fit properly. Does anybody know if or what AC Global replied after SXPKRT informed them about the miss fit of there HC5777?

Thanks,

F
There's a whole thread on this.
In the search bar, type in A C Global.
BTW, the new heater cores are supposed to have copper tubes .
The old style was aluminum.
 
Really nice work you did there. It was very satisfying to watch all the progress, especially at once without having to wait for the next updates ;)
Keep up the great work!

I'm curious about the process of polishing the windshield. What exactly did you do to it?
You sanded it completely before polishing it?
 
Rather than waiting any longer on the backorder on a new windshield from Classic Auto Glass - Windshield Glass, Back Glass, Door Glass, Vent Window Glass and Quarter Window Glass - Chrysler New Yorker, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73 - Catalog Product List Page I found a windshield at local swap meet. It wasn't perfect, since it had a scratch on it that would've been direct view when sitting behind the wheel. But thinking the scratch wasn't too bad, it was worth a try using @david hill suggestion on polishing glass using Cerium Oxide.
After receiving the product found online and then building a stand for the windshield to hold the windshield in position, a mixture was then made with the Cerium Oxide with water to bring it to a pasty composition. It was applied with a clean damp micro fibre towel, first by rubbing the compound in small sections to the area that needed the attention. Once the paste was applied, the polishing was done using a power orbital buffer, and various foam pads (not coarse) to slowly remove the scratch. Besides rubbing the Cerium Oxide onto the glass, it was also applied to the orbital pad.
This is a slow process as the windshield will heat up very quickly. To prevent cracking the windshield, be sure to have a spray bottle with water nearby and spray the glass periodically while using the buffer. It takes a while for the glass to cool down, so taking a break in between stopping to add another mixture of the paste to the windshield would be in your best interest.
After the scratch was gone, the Cerium Oxide was applied to the rest of the windshield to polish the remaining glass.

Cerium Oxide.jpg


Windshield stand.jpg


Polishing foams.jpg
 
I probably asked earlier in the thread, but as you drove it more did you notice if the polishing caused any weird view like you cut a prescription into it?
 
I brought the windshield over to the body shop where the New Yorker has been a few months back after it was cleaned up. The old one had been taken out and this one had already installed when I saw the car this week.
No drive time to report on yet to give a real assessment, but it was a concern of mine too.
While the windshield was still at my shop, @Xenon was using the buffer while we had it up on a table outside. When we were done, we held it up on the edge of the glass on the table while it was outside and looking through the glass, I didn't see any distortion or waves.
I suspect if a coarser buffing pad had been used, the process to remove the scratch may had been faster, but most likely would have ruined the glass beyond repair.
 
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