Brake Drums Wont Budge

[Furiousone]

Hey, I looked through 6 pages of info in this section and I didn't find a question regarding this problem, so . . . I was trying to get my first drum off of my car a few days ago and I tried using a hammer and PB Blaster and I couldn't get them to move. I did notice that the drum didn't turn very freely. It would turn a little easy and then would be a little tight to turn around. I think I need to adjust the drums looser. Maybe the shoes are not letting the drum off? I found the slot where you make the adjustment. What tool do you all use and which direction do you turn it to loosen the shoes? Thanks.

 

[detmatt]

It can be done with a standard screwdriver but I use a small flat bar that works best for me. I don't recall off the top of my head which way you turn it but if you have the factory service manual it will tell you what you need to know. You may find that you need to push the self adjusting lever out of the way in order to loosen the adjuster.

 

[mr. fix it]

Reaching in from the top of the adjuster you want to pry downwards once you push the self adjuster away with a small screw driver or rod of some type..
Make sure you go the opposite direction of what the picture shows here

 

[bluefury361]

If the star wheel won't turn one way, then try the opposite. A good dose of PB blaster will help.
You may need to back the adjustment all the way off. If the shoes and drums are worn to a point where the mating surfaces have grooves and/or ridges it will be difficult to remove the drum otherwise. With the adjustment backed all the way off you can dislodge the star wheel from the shoes.
Replace everything.

 

[Big_John]

Let's get this out of the way.... Is this a front drum? If so, has the spindle nut and bearings been removed?

 

[bluefury361]

[QUOTE="Big_John, Is this a front drum? If so, has the spindle nut and bearings been removed?[/QUOTE]

Very good point....!
If not, take the car to a pro.

 

[mr. fix it]

front drums are separate like the rear drums are they not??? the only reason why it would be stuck together is because it is stuck together...

 

[Big_John]

front drums are separate like the rear drums are they not??? the only reason why it would be stuck together is because it is stuck together...

No, they do not.

The hub is a light press fit into the drum and the wheel studs are swedged over to lock the drum in place.

Look up removing front drums in your FSM.

 

[Snotty]

If the drums are grooved from bad shoes - I've seen it, the rivets on the shoes dug two valleys on each drum - the drums will not easily come off because the shoes will have developed matching ridges on them, thus "locking" them in place. I was able to remove mine only by backing hte adjuster all the way. Even then, I had to yank hard to get the drums off.

 

[mr. fix it]

No, they do not.

The hub is a light press fit into the drum and the wheel studs are swedged over to lock the drum in place.

Look up removing front drums in your FSM.

You are correct. the FSM does instruct the tech to remove the hub.

Mine came off after using a bit of WD-40... or mine were worn out so badly that they came off

 

[Big_John]

You are correct. the FSM does instruct the tech to remove the hub.

Mine came off after using a bit of WD-40... or mine were worn out so badly that they came off

There were some aftermarket replacement brake drums that slid over the hub, GM style.

 

[mr. fix it]

my current replacements do that... I am a happy guy

 

[Furiousone]

Wow! Lots of work to get a brake drum off. So, I have to remove a few things before I can take the drum off?

Let's get this out of the way.... Is this a front drum? If so, has the spindle nut and bearings been removed?

It is a front right drum. I am wondering if all of my drums are going to give me fits. I have to remove the spindle nut and the bearings first? I need to get a FSM and other manuals I guess. Dang it.

 

[Big_John]

Get a FSM here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Go with something close if they don't have the exact year.

It's pretty easy.... pry the dust cover off. Remove cotter pin, unscrew nut (it won't be too tight). Pull out the washer and outer bearing. Done...

Read the FSM for assembly.

 

[Furiousone]

Thanks, Big John, I'll go try that now. I bought some jack stands and an aluminum racing jack from Harbor Freight last weekend just for this job. I'm so stupid sometimes. I should've known when it wasn't moving at all that I was doing something wrong like I always do. I also found some kind of rubber bumper thing that hits the lower a-arm if it bottoms out, that is cracked in half because it is old and it needs replacing. I'll purchase a fsm right away, soon. Let's go see if I can get it off now! Glad I bought one of those pump tubs of Fast Orange. I have a utility tub in my garage that I need to install. I'll have to use a rain barrel and a submersible pump to hook up a water supply from the downspout just on the other side of the garage wall where it will be, in the front right corner. Later.

 

[bluefury361]

Go to U-tube and search for Mopar brake job videos. Watch a few....

 

[Snotty]

I have to remove the spindle nut and the bearings first?

I was going to make some smart-*** response, but then it hit me, if all you've ever worked with is modern disk brakes you would not know this at all. Yes, those must be removed. After you do the outer bearing and washer will come out, then you can take off the drum. There is an inner bearing as well. These will all need to be removed for inspection before you put them back on. Do no re-use the bearing seals.

 

[detmatt]

And clean and repack those bearings before you reassemble. Don't let this job intimidate you, it's really quite easy but does require some specialized drum brake tools that would be worth buying.

 

[commando1]

You forgot the most important one...

 

[bluefury361]

Yeah, the BFH is usually handy for most procedures.