Article for you torque monster stroker dreamers

1.5 liter F1 turbo cars from the 80s came to mind. Qualifying engines made 1200hp. Rumor had it that the BMW made 1500.

Three laps. Out lap, hot lap, in lap.
 
But to the topic at hand:

The dyno chart is interesting. 600 lb ft from 2000 to 5000 rpm. My goal has been to make usable power below 5000 and have more than the stock 480 at 2800 rpm. This engine certainly does that on a budget.

I have the same concerns mentioned above: is there some trickery not being included in the price? I wonder what would happen if you ordered the same engine from the featured builder. What would the real cost be?

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Activation Dual Intercooled Turbocharged Supercharged
This is where the power is made. More Oxygen more power, simple.

@bajajoaquin you will not get that intake under your hood. Friend of mine could not get a regular performer and stock air cleaner under his hood on a 68 imp, he ended up going with a drop base air cleaner.
 
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I was concerned about my intake, carb, air cleaner. I have the Eddie performer intake, Holley 750 quick fuel carb, and Billet Technologies air cleaner and was worried until I put the hood back on. Luckily it all fit on Formal without having to put a 6 pack hood scoop on it. Lol
 
This is where the power is made. More Oxygen more power, simple.

@bajajoaquin you will not get that intake under your hood. Friend of mine could not get a regular performer and stock air cleaner under his hood on a 68 imp, he ended up going with a drop base air cleaner.

That’s right. I was speaking in generalities about how that build was in line with my wish list. I have a CH4B, and I’m going to measure for a Performer. I think the CH4B is as high as I can go, but if a Performer will fit, I can resell the older one.

Updated to add: just re read your post. Thank you for the specifics. I didn’t think the Performer would fit, but I hadn’t had any direct information.
 
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I truly believe for a non-track car, there needs to be 1 cu in = 1 hp maximum for complete reliability.
And the walls of the cylinder should never be cut more than 030.
Im an ultra right conservative, MAGA.
500 cu = 500hp.
 
I truly believe for a non-track car, there needs to be 1 cu in = 1 hp maximum for complete reliability.
And the walls of the cylinder should never be cut more than 030.
Im an ultra right conservative, MAGA.
500 cu = 500hp.
That a good number. MEV member here has a his car set up well without being over the top, should have put that engine in a light car, whatever. His is making more than 500.
IMO you really don't need 600ftlbs in a car that is not going to the track on a semi regular basis, and definitely not in a giant heavyweight, but it's not my money.
Stick a set of max wedge port heads with smaller combustion chamber, and a better cam. Shove that into a A body and your heading for low 10s. Leave the C body close to stock and use it to tow the A body to the track.
Best of both worlds.
 
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That’s about right for a big pushrod engine, I think.

I remember reading that a well-built engine will make about 115% of its displacement in torque. Assuming it’s well built, the specific details won’t change that. What they will do, however, is change the RPM where that occurs. That gives the change in power. HP is torque times rpm. More revs in one of these engines is less reliability.

Anyway as I think this through, I’d also second-guess that dyno. With a small carb and other cost saving measures, it’s got, what 640 lb-ft from 511 cubes? That might be a bit optimistic.
 
Well the carb is technically small for this engine. 912 cfm is the correct number for 5400 rpm. If you were to put a large carburetor on it the drivability will suffer (think 2 bbl 318). There are many more compromises than the carb. The heads do not have enough volume to use a larger/correct size carb, even worse drivability. The cam, although very healthy is becoming more normalized with the big displacement. I believe the point here is to show how affordable a more tame stroker BBM can be. If I were to decide to build a engine like this for my Charger I already own the intake and carb and a original 292/509 purple cam, a high volume fuel pump, headers although probably a little small for a 512" so my cost would go down.
That's a very street friendly engine with a kind of lopey idle.
 
That's a very street friendly engine with a kind of lopey idle.
Personally I'm more comfortable with an blup blup blup blup blup idle than a blup blup-bla blup blup-bla blup blup-bla one. You just know you're gonna have to pull the plugs by the time you get home from Dairy Queen.
 
My NYB has 450 hp from a B engine which is a 406 now.

.030 over bore. 10 to 1 forged pistons, aluminum cylinder heads. Drivability is pretty good. I've started it at 28°F with no problems. It needed to warm up for about 5 minutes and it was ready to go. Idled very nice.
 
The nice thing about displacement is you make big torque from idle so horsepower comes in early too without the need for high compression and big lumpy cams.

Mine has a poor choice in camshaft but in spite of that makes over 500 ft/lbs from 2000 to 5000 rpm with 8.97:1 compression which with aluminum heads equals regular gas. Win win.

Kevin
 
I forget to mention that my engine runs great on 93 octane with no pinging.
 
$300 for machining?
Seems like you'd wanna give a 50 year old block a little more love than that.
The 600 Ft Lbs for $6k deal isn't bad though.
 
How old is the actual article? How many times has it been republished‽
 
I just had my block done. Cleaned, mains align honed, bored and torque plate honed, squared and decked, and all the small stuff done - 800.00
 
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