68 Newport with twist

Sure this is common knowledge but this is how I pulled the bushing from my lower control arms. 2 -3/4 fine th nuts welded to 2 -3/4 c nuts. 3/4 c threaded rod and piece of tubing that rests on outer shoulder of bushing. Grease up nut/washers and out comes inner shaft with inner bushing.

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Light careful slice along inner loosens it.
3/4 c but welded in once rubber pulled out.
Pipe the rests on control arm and threaded rod pulls out outer sleeve. No real effort and no damage. Plan is clean up and box lower surface of arm. Local Napa deal was able to get all the bushings overnight and well priced. Hope this helps someone along.

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One other thing I did differently from other times. The nut on the rubber stopper on the upper arm was bonded and hard to get in sideways with a grinder and chop off. Plus thicker. Plus easy to mark up arm. And then an aha moment. Slice straight down the middle and knock the half nuts off.

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This may not be popular but it is my experience. These spindles were sandblasted and Por 15 applied following the instructions. That was 7 years ago.
Now it is a water holding loose fitting skin. The same thing happened on all parts

I am not impressed and will not be using it again. Your mileage may vary.

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The pitting was bad enough that deep buffing was required....so I got carried away
Will still sandblast before paint to get the hard to access areas

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Since it appears you are removing the rust and pitting, I'd recommend getting the spindles powder coated or try Rust Bullet. POR-15 will not adhere to smooth rust free metal, and those failures are are well documented.
Rust bullet is supposed to adhere to properly sanded and treated steel and can used as a primer
Just my .02
 
Final fitting and fabbing of rear deck/fold down seat back.
Seats are from an 06ish envoy. The rear was a 2/3 split shortened to a bucket.

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And the rear folds down to allow access to a fold down back wall to be built now.
Rear deck will be widened and boxed for strength as will wheel tub to deck.
Trunk springs are gone and will use prop rods from Spitfire.
Plan is for factory looking console front to back. Big flat one.

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Rear deck and seat back supports installed. Pocket will be drop down door for trunk access. Middle of main door between seatbacks will swing separately for access as well.
Bent out of 100thou with an inner piece fit in first so top is actually a tube when done. Very strong with some more brackets planned for fender well to deck as well

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And the machine shop called. Cant get it till monday now but glad it's done. Block has been bored 30over and cam bearings installed after hot tanking. Plan is get block/crank/heads/oil pan installed with trans so front end can get bolted in. Can pick up new cam and rest of rebuild done in frame as funded allow. Have come to really like original turquoise factory paint so will paint engine that way.
 
Interior going back together. Bought repro rug and headliner 10yrs ago and removed them for mods. Used blueskin and insulation padd under again and sauna insulation above headliner. Dash pad is out for shortening from edge and recovering. Really prefer look of earlier dash so copying that style. Removing air conditioning ducts from corner of dash and hope to sneak speakers in there

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With everything finally out of the way and the new route for wiring in console I can finally sort this mess. Player and amp will move to console along with amp/water/temp gauge package

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