I just talked to the auto paint store. They said the primer/sealer is a watertight sealer and top coating is unnecessary. They described it as containing a type of resin that seals out moisture and it being a sort of primer/paint combo. It is not the same thing as base primer/filler. Perhaps I will paint, just to be 105 percent sure, but it appears unnecessary. As always, thanks for the responses.
Convertible Fury - 1970
- Thread starter Jeff
- Start date
Yea, the Rustoleam is pretty decent paint. I'd buy a quart and brush it on or spray it with a cheap Harbor Fright spray.
Paint it is.
Me: Some primers absorb water and must be top coated. Is that true for your primer sealer, or can I use it as a topcoat? I painted a car floor with it and want to put the rug right on top, without topcoating, unless the primer will absorb water.
Duplicolor: The Primer Sealer will prevent it from absorbing water, so you can top coat it. It is not designed to be used as a stand alone product.
Me: Is that because of UV or moisture or something else? The particular application is a car floor, so it wouldn’t be exposed to UV.
Duplicolor: It is designed to be top coated. It will not hold up well as a top coat.
Me: Some primers absorb water and must be top coated. Is that true for your primer sealer, or can I use it as a topcoat? I painted a car floor with it and want to put the rug right on top, without topcoating, unless the primer will absorb water.
Duplicolor: The Primer Sealer will prevent it from absorbing water, so you can top coat it. It is not designed to be used as a stand alone product.
Me: Is that because of UV or moisture or something else? The particular application is a car floor, so it wouldn’t be exposed to UV.
Duplicolor: It is designed to be top coated. It will not hold up well as a top coat.
AFAIK primers are designed to perform 3 functions, form a tight bond to bare metal surfaces, have enough filler to fill minor surface imperfections and finally to provide an optimal surface to which a top coat will bond to. The ability to bond to a top coat means the surface must have some porosity, so without a top coat to seal it will allow it to absorb whatever chemicals it comes in contact with.
Does anyone know a source for these metal clips? I found a workaround part at the hardware store but prefer something closer to original if possible.
Also, what is the best lube for the window guide channels/rollers? I have some white lithium grease but I'm not sure if it compatible with the type of plastic the rollers are made of. Plus, it is a spray, and it seems like I should put quite a lot of grease in the channels.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
The white lithium also comes in a tube or tub.
Others will possibly not like this, but for the last couple of decades I have been using the Ford blue Teflon grease for this(looks like blue yogurt)... the stuff lasts forever and I have never had a problem from it. They also have a product called MiniVent Lube which is in a smallish squeeze bottle and will silicone treat window runs without disassembling the door panels or getting spray product everywhere. BMW has an excellent seal conditioner for soft rubber parts... I think their application is for convertible top seals.
For something like this, who gives a rip who manufactured or spec'd out the formula?? You even have to go to Ford to get the additive for a sure grip.
Does this look like the Ford product?
Amazon product ASIN B000NU77DA
This Superlube product also sounds good:
Amazon product ASIN B0081JE0OO
I can't see your pictures, I lack a plugin to view some things and I haven't figured out what it is.
I got the top to work for the first time. I'm pretty pumped about that.
Does anyone know what this white foam strip is for? And should it be glued down at an angle, like the one shown, or in line with the car as shown in old glue residue in the second picture?
Does anyone know what this white foam strip is for? And should it be glued down at an angle, like the one shown, or in line with the car as shown in old glue residue in the second picture?
70Tom
Senior Member
I'm surprised they don't smell fairly awful based on how they look.
My rear seat looked near perfect on the top side, but the underside looked just ike yours. I carefully removed the hog rings and slid the spring assembly out then sandblasted all the rust. Then sprayed it with some water to let it flash rust as a prep for POR-15 rust converter and a coat of POR-15 black.
Then pulled the fabric and foam.
Took it all to my upholstery guy and he replaced the padding and reinstalled everything. Not too shabby for the factory vinyl.
That turned out great. I think I will take my seat to an upholstery shop and see if they think this is possible with mine. The front is decent, but certainly not perfect, and the vinyl seems brittle. It might be a project for next winter. I want to get this back together and drive it this summer.
I took my rear seat to an upholster over the weekend, and he said they are too far gone to save. He said it would be about $1,500 to make new front and back seats. I'm not in the market for that right now, but I actually thought it would be more because the seats are pretty complicated.
I removed the front seat sliding mechanism from the seat frame so I can repair and paint it. Does anyone make reproductions of the large springs? Both of mine are broken. Other than that, the mechanism is in pretty good shape. Are there supposed to be plastic spacers between the seat mechanism and the floor? I was browsing National Mo-parts to look for springs and saw this: Front Seat Rail 1/2" Plastic Spacer-Repro
I removed the front seat sliding mechanism from the seat frame so I can repair and paint it. Does anyone make reproductions of the large springs? Both of mine are broken. Other than that, the mechanism is in pretty good shape. Are there supposed to be plastic spacers between the seat mechanism and the floor? I was browsing National Mo-parts to look for springs and saw this: Front Seat Rail 1/2" Plastic Spacer-Repro
No spacers on my car's buckets.
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