So this morning the kids wanted me to give them a ride and she was very hard to start. Didn't want to hold a idle and pop pop back fire. Now it is 34 degree tho. Anyways, finally she started and held a idle and we drove about 1 mile. Before she started bucking and felt like IMO no fuel. So I pulled over, now when she starts she'll hold a idle and then slowly will just die.
Fuel pump??? Bad??
- Thread starter FuryDan66
- Start date
Yatzee
Active Member
It does sound like you're running out of fuel but exactly why is the question. No sense throwing good money away on a pump before a full diagnostic. 1- Pull the coil wire, run a temporary hose into a container and have someone crank the engine. No fuel could be a bad pump, pickup sock clogged or plugged line. The pump could also be sucking air via a bad hose connection. If you have fuel from the pump, it could be the filter, float stuck or, there is a small screen at the inlet to the carb that could be blocked. Don't discount a worn pump rod that pushes on the pump arm but if it pumps fuel it should be OK.
See if it has the correct gas cap on it, just for general principles.
As inexpensive as new fuel pumps can be, and since it's a "new to you" car, even if it does not help fix the problem, you at least know the fuel pump is good. Check to see what a few spark plugs look like, if they look gas fouled or whatever. Just find three easy ones to get to.
Can't always go by the fuel filter showing to have any fuel in it as it can appear "dry" and the car still runs and the accel pump has "shot".
Before you change the fuel pump, the next time it dies out, after it has died out, take the air cleaner off and operate the throttle to see if the accel pump shoots gas out of the accel pump nozzle. That wound indicate if there's any fuel in the float bowl on that side of the AFB.
Is the electric choke working as it should?
CBODY67
As inexpensive as new fuel pumps can be, and since it's a "new to you" car, even if it does not help fix the problem, you at least know the fuel pump is good. Check to see what a few spark plugs look like, if they look gas fouled or whatever. Just find three easy ones to get to.
Can't always go by the fuel filter showing to have any fuel in it as it can appear "dry" and the car still runs and the accel pump has "shot".
Before you change the fuel pump, the next time it dies out, after it has died out, take the air cleaner off and operate the throttle to see if the accel pump shoots gas out of the accel pump nozzle. That wound indicate if there's any fuel in the float bowl on that side of the AFB.
Is the electric choke working as it should?
CBODY67
It's electric choke, so if I hear you correctly just push back on the throttle cable as if it were running and there should be gas squirting into the primaries correct? As far as the fuel filter its full of gas or let's say 3/4 full. Since changing the filter it won't start or keep an idle anymore.
PontiacJim
Member
Ballast Resistor gone bad? Not familiar with your car, but have had to replace them as they do go bad and it has been a long time and I don't recall the symptoms. Just sayin'.
1966newport
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no spark or no fuel?
So... So far I replaced ballast resistor and it still won't keep an idle I also check the carburetor when I open up the butterflies you can see gas squirting into the primaries next is to have my buddy come over hold the canister and try to Pump Fuel into it from a fuel pump.
Spark plugs look good other than excessive fuel, which makes me still look towards spark;( plug wires look good also). Fuel pump, pumps fuel up and out so good there. Are the only other thing I can think about is the voltage regulator in or the ignition itself.
Last edited:
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
If I was you, I would check the condition of the points and the condenser. Also check the timing. Sounds like your fuel delivery system is OK. Did this car ever run well since you bought it?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
It's not your ballast resistor, not your voltage regulator. Is your choke snapping shut when cold and open the throttle. Voltage regulator is not in play until car is running.
So I noticed this is the only piece that opens up the butterfly that allows air into the primaries I guess you could say. For some reason that is completely closed and will only open if I take my hand and push down on it there is absolutely nothing as far as the spring or adapter hook to it it just kind of all by itself. When I push on a throttle cable it does not open up.
PontiacJim
Member
That should be your "fast idle cam" which is attached to your choke. It operates when the car is cold and the choke closes. You can see the adjusting screw just barely sticking up under the cam. The cam usually has a step or two that the adjusting screw will rest against. When you pump the gas twice just before starting the cold engine, the choke should close, and the fast idle cam will drop into position and ride on the adjusting screw. This will raise your idle up and your engine runs faster to speed up engine warming. As the choke is opened, ie when you snap the throttle to lower the fast idle because your engine has warmed up a bit or if you begin to accelerate to drive off, the fast idle cam will be moved into a position where the adjusting screw will not be against the fast idle cam - just like in your photo. You carb will now run of the idle adjustment screw found on the side of the carb. This screw is the one you set for normal warm engine running. So your carb has 2 idle adjustment screws, the one for your fast idle when cold, and the one for normal idle when the engine is warm.
If you open the throttle by hand just a small amount and hold it, you should be able to manually close your choke and you will see the choke rod activate the fast idle cam to which it operates.
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