Intake and Carb Shopping List Needed, 383

I guess im not sure what 'heat risers' are and if I want them blocked off or not, can anyone elaborate?
I'm gonna get the #1214 ordered this weekend. Intake showed up yesterday, studs and carb have been ordered too.
I'll probably need a low rise air cleaner too. Would love to keep it looking stock, or at least old and dirty.

Plus, will headers actually fit?? My engine bay looks pretty cramped already especially on the drivers side. Would love to see someones pics with that!!
 
OneEyed said:
I guess im not sure what 'heat risers' are and if I want them blocked off or not, can anyone elaborate?
I'm gonna get the #1214 ordered this weekend. Intake showed up yesterday, studs and carb have been ordered too.
I'll probably need a low rise air cleaner too. Would love to keep it looking stock, or at least old and dirty.

Plus, will headers actually fit?? My engine bay looks pretty cramped already especially on the drivers side. Would love to see someones pics with that!!
Click to expand...

The heat riser valve is located in the passenger side exhaust manifold. When the engine is cold, the valve closes forcing exhaust gas back up through the head, intake crossover, and into the drivers side head and out the exhaust. Its good for cold weather driveability during the warm-up cycle. If you use a carb with a divorced choke, it also helps heat the choke to open it up sooner.

Most guys here at FCBO hate headers due to fitment issues, leaks, burned up starters, etc.
If TTI makes headers for your car, they will fit and eliminate most problems that make guys hate headers. They are expensive. Most guys swap to a nippondenso mini starter when they go to headers too.
Schumacher makes a tri-y shorty that will fit most b/rb engines in most chassis, but they are also expensive. They also have thick flanges and are well made like the TTI headers.
 
OneEyed said:
I'm gonna pass on any exhaust upgrades for now. My carb has been giving me alot of hassle so I want to focus on that. Plus, my valve covers still leak and there is a pool of oil on the valley pan. So I hope I can cure some of that in the process. Ive had the valve covers off two or three times now. This time I sealed the gaskets to the valve cover itself, but still leaks. I can see oil coming up and collecting around the valve cover bolts, then from there it drips down on the block. Not sure how it gets on the valley pan.

Also, I've had the carb apart a few times, rebuilt, regasketed and still leaks and doesnt start worht a crap, even more so now thats its 10-20 degrees colder out. So Id just like to be done with it.

#1214 added to my list. Anything else??

Lastly, any opinions on the TM6?? even though its almost to my doorstep...
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The TM6 single plane "tarantula manifold" wasn't a bad manifold back in the day, but it is mis-matched for your application. For a heavy c-body with stock everything else, I would stick with a dual-plane intake. But you can use it, it will just give up some low end torque over a dual plane and you wont be revving high enough to reap the benefits of high rpm horsepower that the TM-6 is good for. You may notice a lack of low end throttle response and pep around town with the TM-6, but it wont be a deal killer if you are cash strapped. The TM-6 works best with headers, head work, 4:11 gears etc.
 
I do agree that headers on a stock engine that can't hardly pull past 5000 rpm but my car picked up almost 2 mpg with a longer duration cam and a lower compression engine, carb, dist, gearing etc. Headers and a X pipe are the only real difference that helps mileage
 
70bigblockdodge said:
I do agree that headers on a stock engine that can't hardly pull past 5000 rpm but my car picked up almost 2 mpg with a longer duration cam and a lower compression engine, carb, dist, gearing etc. Headers and a X pipe are the only real difference that helps mileage
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I want to put the Schumacher tri-y shorties on my New Yorker Brougham, but every time I have the cash they are out of stock. I think they'll be a great upgrade over the manifolds, and I dont think I'll be giving up much in my 2.76 geared low-revving 440 vs full length TTI's. I wouldn't mind upgrading to the 440 Magnum cam either, just need to fix the AC condenser and the radio and front suspension first. I REALLY want a set of the trick flow heads and some pistons that aint .160 down the hole.
 
So I've got the TM6 intake and 1406 carb on my work bench. I got the 1214 on the way. But what else do I need? I assume there is linkage thingys and what not...Is there a book or something that can lay this out for me? I'm sure someone has made a list already.

Every website I read into gives the basics but doesn't give all the info as far as what all I need. And when info IS given, its very vague....

I've also got my eye on a 2186, so maybe I'll get it all to fit under the hood.
 
You may need a different throttle cable bracket and kickdown linkage, or you might be able to heat/bend/torch/weld what you got to make it work. You may need a different length throttle cable. You can piecemeal it with junkyards parts or order stuff off ebay or switch to a cable kickdown from Lokar. Whatever works best for you.
 
commando1 said:
That sounds to me exactly like:
Landau vinyl roof on my 2017 Hellcat.
Same thing...
Click to expand...
The difference is I will only offend your sensibilities if the hood is popped. Your Landau Hellcat offends everybody with sense, like 24 inch wheels on a NYB ( or 99% of the donks they put them on)

I probably wont put headers on unless I am already pulling the engine. Murphy says the stud next to the power brake booster will snap off if I think about ******* with it. The one holding the air tube on the passenger side manifold snapped off when I barely touched it already. Drilling out a busted stud in situ sucked on a 318 D-150, and the engine bay is way tighter on a 440 NYB. Not pressing my luck.

But if them manifolds DO come off at some point, the heat-riser havin' smog tube riddled turds aren't making it back on. I thought about drilling tapping and pipe plugging all the smog holes and taking the heat riser out, and may still go that route.

Quality headers with THICK flanges and tubes that FIT for me please. (That eliminates 90% of available product)
Old Mopar Action tech article says the Schumachers fit with a stock starter but the dakota mini is recommended. I really like my Highland Park Hummingbird and think I would miss it. I'm non-committal.

I also got duals and glasspacks on it already, so it can't get any louder.
 
Don't make me do this Stan.

0505_CCRP_02_z_PAGE.jpg
 
So after comparing my stock 2 barrel to my 1406. The fuel line will need re-configuring as well as the throttle cable. It looks like the Edelbrock 1481 will fix the throttle but is there a fuel line adapter or anything? I'd rather not have it look like it was McGyver rigged. And any part numbers/links for the kickdown?

Also, what do I do about all the vacuum lines coming off the 1406? The one in the back makes sense, but the three on the front? whereas my stock 2barrel has one on the front right.
 
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You can get a fuel pump to carb line set for a 383 to Carter AFB as long as it has same fitting as yours at the fuel pump and stay with same filter location. In line tube, Fine lines, etc will have bent up lines for you.
 
OneEyed said:
So after comparing my stock 2 barrel to my 1406. The fuel line will need re-configuring as well as the throttle cable. It looks like the Edelbrock 1481 will fix the throttle but is there a fuel line adapter or anything? I'd rather not have it look like it was McGyver rigged. And any part numbers/links for the kickdown?

Also, what do I do about all the vacuum lines coming off the 1406? The one in the back makes sense, but the three on the front? whereas my stock 2barrel has one on the front right.
Click to expand...
PCV valve to port in center, distributor advance on the left and cap the port on the right.
 
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