Power window issues.......

bluefury361

Old Man with a Hat
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Hey guys, I've got a problem... need to pick your brains...

The left rear window, (power), in my 69 300 will not operate. The motor is new and runs great when powered up on the bench but when connected into the harness will not run
Both gang switch and the single switch test good. the motor gets a signal when either switch is activated, but will not run, either way.
All the other windows work fine.
I have the schematic from the shop manual and have inspected the harness wiring and connections, all look good. multi meter shows 13.7 volts at the motor througn the harness.... still won't run.

Any ideas.....? I can't install my interior until I get past this issue.

Any help or suggustions will be apreciated.


Will
 
It's not grounded.
You're going to have to trace the wire that your schematic shows as a the ground wire with a continuity tester.
Damn, I hate electrical problems.
 
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I thought of that right away. There is no ground wire on the motor so i'm guessing it grounds through the regulator mount to the body. A seperate ground wire to the motor didn't help.
When I started out the window would retract ok but would not come back up, now nothing.

Funny thing... I connect it directly to the battery and hold it in my hand and it runs great. Switch wires and it runs the opposite direction. This is basicly what occures when connected to the harness except the motor won't run. The entire circuit works of a master ground at the drivers side A piller... checked and cleaned. The rest of the motors work good.
 
I thought of that right away. There is no ground wire on the motor so i'm guessing it grounds through the regulator mount to the body. A seperate ground wire to the motor didn't help.
When I started out the window would retract ok but would not come back up, now nothing.

Funny thing... I connect it directly to the battery and hold it in my hand and it runs great. Switch wires and it runs the opposite direction. This is basicly what occures when connected to the harness except the motor won't run. The entire circuit works of a master ground at the drivers side A piller... checked and cleaned. The rest of the motors work good.

On my '65, the rear harnesses have a separate pigtail attaching them. Have you checked and cleaned that connection? If that all checks out, you may have a spliced wire somewhere along the line. It may be time to untape and inspect. For elimination purposes, are you certain all of the rollers move freely and the tracks are free of debris? Is the switch connection at both the master switch and rear window switch tight and secure? If the master switch isn't making a good connection, neither switch will operate the window. My bet is on a bad connection somewhere along the line.
 
On my '65, the rear harnesses have a separate pigtail attaching them. Have you checked and cleaned that connection? If that all checks out, you may have a spliced wire somewhere along the line. It may be time to untape and inspect. For elimination purposes, are you certain all of the rollers move freely and the tracks are free of debris? Is the switch connection at both the master switch and rear window switch tight and secure? If the master switch isn't making a good connection, neither switch will operate the window. My bet is on a bad connection somewhere along the line.

I appreciate the thoughts and suggustions.
No seperate rear ground wire in 69. Harness and connections all look good and I have continunity through out the entire circuit, (checked from connection to connection). I get good voltage readings at the motor connector and even made a secure ground wire between the motor and body... Still nothing. I have a second, new in the box, back up motor which won't work either. I removed the entire regulator and window assy so there is no bind or load on the motor at all.
I'll let y'all know when I figure this out.... It's a head scratcher....

 
What does the ammeter on the dash do when you try to move that window? If something mechanical in the window motor or regulator is stuck then the meter should drop quite a bit towards discharge, if the meter doesn't move then it must be a bad connection somewhere.
 
What does the ammeter on the dash do when you try to move that window? If something mechanical in the window motor or regulator is stuck then the meter should drop quite a bit towards discharge, if the meter doesn't move then it must be a bad connection somewhere.

Thanks for the advise. There dosen't seem to be any draw at all when either switch is engaged..... like an open circuit. But there is current present at the motor connection.

 
Do you have a window lock switch on the driver's door command panel? I have found that if it's in the wrong position or half way between positions and the rear windows won't work. Easy test......open/close the other rear window.
 
I'll admit being a dumb *ss and it happened to me. I had to replace all 4 window motors (they were all seized) when I first bought the New Yorker. Anyways, I had the same problem as Will, I traced down all the power wires, checked grounds, checked every inch of the wiring harness..........and it was the damn window lock switch in the wrong position on the driver's command panel.
 
I'll admit being a dumb *ss and it happened to me. I had to replace all 4 window motors (they were all seized) when I first bought the New Yorker. Anyways, I had the same problem as Will, I traced down all the power wires, checked grounds, checked every inch of the wiring harness..........and it was the damn window lock switch in the wrong position on the driver's command panel.

MAN.... I WISH it was that simple..! My car is not equipped with a window lock out. I'll burn a few more brain cells today.... But may need to seek professional help come Monday. I am not an electrical engineer but do have a working knowledge and understanding of automotive electrical systems.... HECK.... How hard can it be....? LOL.

 
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