The only way you're gonna straighten that is with a hammer and appropriate punches/supports etc. unless you should happen to have access to a hydraulic press - and given what I've seen of your efforts so far, that would surprise me.
So far as I dig deeper into my 383
- Thread starter FuryDan66
- Start date
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
traintech55
Senior Member
Remove the old seal, turn the cover over, and on a flat surface use a drift and a hammer work the damage out. It does not have to be perfect, just back enough to get the seal installed.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
For $38.97 (including a new seal already installed), I would not fool with the old cover.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
It's only Dan's money, so I say get a new cover, seal included is a plus.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
F-that get.a chrome one definitely needs a chrome one.
You still need the oil pan front section and the cover gasket and the WP housing to block gaskets, which comes as a kit with wow imagine that another seal now you have 2 seals. One to lose, and one in a Chinese cover.
If you are insistent on a new one spend the extra $5 on the Milodon one so you can be reasonably sure the timing tab and vibration dampener will not be occupying the same real estate.
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LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I thought that was a given.
No way, don't even try to fix it, get another one!
I would hammer that one out or buy a used, genuine Mopar unit rather than a Chinese POS.
eBay has a bunch... example: MOPAR BIG BLOCK 383-440 HEMI TIMING CHAIN COVER CUDA CHARGER GTX | eBay
eBay has a bunch... example: MOPAR BIG BLOCK 383-440 HEMI TIMING CHAIN COVER CUDA CHARGER GTX | eBay
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
There ya go. Even better and cheaper too.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I would fix it. But I am really cheap. You wound the bolts for the puller in too far. Knock the seal out from the front then turn the cover over on a block of wood so you do not bend them out the front. Smack those bolt divits back toward the front using a screwdriver or long bolt and a hammer, you just want to push them back into place not into next week. Steel has a very good memory and will want to go back like it was. If you get it close it will be fine, those seals hardly ever leak, and a little black ultra RTV is your friend. You will need some at the corners of the valley pan anyway.
heyoldguy
Member
Oh crap! Forget all the timing cover fixes. PM me your address and I'll sent you a good used one for free.
PontiacJim
Member
A generous offer for sure but..........you might want to install a new seal just to make sure the cover doesn't get mashed up when FuryDan tries his hand at installing one. LOL Just busting your balls FuryDan - could not help myself.
You're doing good, this how many of us learned - hands on and messing things up so we know exactly how things really work instead of how we thought they should work. LOL
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
This is the correct way
max1196
Member
Even if you try putting it on the other way (dish inwards) you'll discover that it will rub against the T chain before it bottoms against the T gear. Only goes one way.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Jim lol, yes trial and error
FuryDan: I would like to make one more suggestion to you. Get this book:
How to Rebuild Big-Block MOPAR Engines
The book walks through the removal, rebuild and re-install of a Chrysler 383 engine, and it covers every thing you are doing or are trying to do with your engine. The book has helped me enormously during the project to remove a 383 and install of a 440 engine in my '66 300.
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