So I want to have a 440 built....
- Thread starter carrman
- Start date
I invited him here Fred, probably six years ago. As I remember it he did join, probably a couple posts and never heard from him again
carrman
Senior Member
It's 88 here right now. Idling she goes to 210 degrees. revved it to 2000 rpm, needle began dropping. 20 degree drop from top to bottom of radiator per the temp gun. Thinking low air flow at idle is a problem...
carrman
Senior Member
It's 96 now and it's really unhappy. Driving at about 60 she climbed up to 210. Stopped to get a drink, and when I went out to her 10 minutes later, the hot light came on when I started her. Something's very wrong here.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
When the temp was climbing did the fan clutch engage to pull more air?
carrman
Senior Member
Never heard a difference in fan noise.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
When the engine is cold and you start it you should be able to hear the fan roaring, it should disengage after a minute or 2, but should re-engage when the temp rises and it's required. That's when it will start roaring again.
carrman
Senior Member
When I shut the engine off, the fan immediately stops turning. You can feel drag turning the fan with the engine off.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
210@ 96° ambient air temp is not horrible your still losing 114° on a brand new engine. The hot light coming on is because the temp goes up after you shut it off, the water is not circulating, as long as it goes off quickly once started.
carrman
Senior Member
I understand about the temps once I shut the engine off. I'm
Just concerned I built an overheating pig.
Just concerned I built an overheating pig.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
*
Is there a larger radiator available that will fit in the car? Is your water pump housing a factory piece or aftermarket? Is the water pump factory or aftermarket?
After reading the recent posts again, I realize Stan's right. The more I think about the cooling system I believe it to be marginal. If everything was perfect with a 160 thermostat the engine should be around 160-170 all the time.
Is there a larger radiator available that will fit in the car? Is your water pump housing a factory piece or aftermarket? Is the water pump factory or aftermarket?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Vacuum advance hooked up?
Is it working?
Did you get rid of the lean surge?
There is a reason the engine is getting hot with a not completely failed cooling system.
Is it working?
Did you get rid of the lean surge?
There is a reason the engine is getting hot with a not completely failed cooling system.
carrman
Senior Member
Water pump aftermarket deep finned piece hand picked by Krautmaster for it's ability to not cause cavitation. Current rad is an American Eagle 26" aluminum 2 row with 1" tubes.
carrman
Senior Member
Vac advanced hooked up and working. Lean surge gets dialed out tomorrow. Temps were hovering in the 210 range today on the freeway and it was 96 here at the time.
a 160 degree thermostat doesn't mean that the car will run at 160-170. it holds the coolant in the block until 160 degrees before releasing it into the radiator. from that point on it gets as hot as the rest of the cooling system allows (with consideration to mixture and timing) . 180-200 is not unreasonable.
Are you using an after market water pump housing? There's a long thread on FABO regarding after market aluminum housings that have internal passages that are 30%+ smaller than stock. Also is the Tstat a deep skirt unit by any chance? I tried using the deep skirt units a couple of times and they would always run hotter.
I also think that you should be getting 40° or more ∆T across the radiator.
carrman
Senior Member
This water pump is a Milodon aluminum unit with anti-cavitation plate. The stat is not a deep skirt. Carb was richened up today, no more surges or flat spots. Of course the temps outside were 20 degrees cooler too, so no verdict on heating yet.
carrman
Senior Member
Ok so I now have a Milodon high flow 180 degree stat, and a new Hayden 2797 severe duty fan clutch. Carb has been richened up and the flat spot is gone. Yesterday in the low 80's temps are running between 195-210. She gets warm and doesn't like cooling down. One thing left for me to consider is the mud guard on the front of the radiator. Rich installed a half inch thick honeycomb mudguard before I bought the car. Maybe it's restricting air flow??
What's your shroud like?
When you measured the temps at the Tstat outlet and at the radiator return how much temp drop do you have? My 10.5 cr 440 in an '85 Dodge pickup drops 40 to 42 degrees across the radiator.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Any picture of this?
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