Who has upgraded from RV-2 to Sanden?
- Thread starter Polara_500
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I haven't had a problem with R134A....I'm going to put that in my Sanden system too.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Yeah, 12A. Banned by many states, just not by the Feds, yet.
People that run around all the time shouting that the sky is falling and that 12A is explosive is based on data purposely misinterpreted to give the illusion on how smart they are. Don't listen to them.
12A efficiency matches R12 more closely than 134A.
After doing some searching, this is the list of 18 states that don't allow "flammable" refrigerants (their words, not mine)
Yes, both 4 Season compressors had check balls, but neither compressor had the spring. Original Air Group has a video that touches on these.
People's Republic of Maryland you have to have a license to buy a 30 lb can of R134a now.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Meanwhile, China, India, and Brazil are belching out more **** in a minute than you can in a 100 years.
I have sandens on my fury and charger. I'm not into an OEM look currently with my cars so I wouldn't consider an RV2 anymore. My RR still has a working RV2 on 134a, if it dies I'll convert it to sanden.
The charger has a whole classic auto air system Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning & Heating for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks and it blows COLD. Will freeze you out surprisingly. The Fury has bouchillon performance underhood kit and stock heater box. It works ok but not as good.
The charger has a whole classic auto air system Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning & Heating for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks and it blows COLD. Will freeze you out surprisingly. The Fury has bouchillon performance underhood kit and stock heater box. It works ok but not as good.
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I haven't looked into the laws... but there was change that went into effect around the start of the year (end of last year?) that I interrupted to mean you would need a license, period, to purchase... I observed some local parts stores had it off the shelves, for a change (around here they usually have half a dozen end caps full scattered around the store). I was hopeful, because I hate small containers which often have sealant mixed in.
For many years, they idiots at the counter wanted to fight selling 30lb containers... they usually only wanted a commercial account to sell it to, but didn't understand about the licensing at all.
I've since seen it still for sale a wally world, so much ado about nothing again. More pointless legislation and no enforcement... Costco, Sam's club or BJ's will probably still have it in 30lb containers... as long as they think they can sell it without legal problems.
FWIW, I stick to R134a, mostly because I can use existing recovery equipment if I need to. If I ever convert away from the RV2, it would only be more reason IMO to stay mainstream... If somehow it gets too expensive one day, I suppose I'll compare the 12a to propane and decide which I want to use.
Not that I'm angling for the "I'm smarter than you" Merit Badge...
30# propane cylinders are really cheap
I haven't looked into the laws... but there was change that went into effect around the start of the year (end of last year?) that I interrupted to mean you would need a license, period, to purchase... I observed some local parts stores had it off the shelves, for a change (around here they usually have half a dozen end caps full scattered around the store). I was hopeful, because I hate small containers which often have sealant mixed in.
For many years, they idiots at the counter wanted to fight selling 30lb containers... they usually only wanted a commercial account to sell it to, but didn't understand about the licensing at all.
I've since seen it still for sale a wally world, so much ado about nothing again. More pointless legislation and no enforcement... Costco, Sam's club or BJ's will probably still have it in 30lb containers... as long as they think they can sell it without legal problems.
FWIW, I stick to R134a, mostly because I can use existing recovery equipment if I need to. If I ever convert away from the RV2, it would only be more reason IMO to stay mainstream... If somehow it gets too expensive one day, I suppose I'll compare the 12a to propane and decide which I want to use.
Not that I'm angling for the "I'm smarter than you" Merit Badge...
30# propane cylinders are really cheap
Prices are starting to climb on the 30 lb'ers too. R134a is getting phased out just like R12 did. Now they are selling the R1234yf that is in the newer vehicles that the cheapest I can find is $70 a lb. This **** is so expensive that the manufacturer's are selling it in 10 lb cans.
The new crap doesn't phase me a bit... I don't own and am unlikely to own (at least not for a long time) anything that requires it. It has no compatibility at all with R134a systems... so there will never be a retro fit dilemma like the R12 cars had. Some factory recommend R12 conversions recommended the replacement of nearly the entire A/C system and some of the cooling system as well. Fun times in the 90's... "We can do the $3k+/- factory conversion... or these $5 fittings will let us pump the cheaper stuff in and hope it cools "good enough"."
The cheapest I can find R1234yf is $700 for a 10 lb can. A lot of places want $1000 for a 10 lb can.
I don't even have equipment for it at work yet... I could look into pricing if you needed it, but I would hold off for a while if you don't. I am guessing the price will eventually come down and stabilize to a range over time.
I don't need any. I have a friend that hit a deer with a 17 Ram. He repaired it himself and needed the new Freon. He got it charged at the local Dodge dealer.
SuicideDoorLincoln
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Original air rebuilt mine and did a fabulous job. I wouldn't use a 4 seasons or a-1 car done if you gave it to me for free. I stuck with the rv2 because I wanted to stay r12 The reason why the epr valve is deleted is because as they age the wax inside deteriorates . Even a NOS would be 44 years old now and deteriorated. Its just a flow metering valve is all it is. The cycling switch or icing switch is a relatively simple install only removing the dash pad. You wire it in to the compressor through the factory plug on top of the intake manifold 12" away from the ac compressor. Meaning. One wire goes to the power side coming up the back of the engine, the other side goes to the compressor itself. All it does is create an open circuit. I even threw it in the freezer when I got home with it then took it out to hear it "click" once the temp raised and the switch closed. Cold=open, hot = closed. Seems to be set around 35-38 degrees The probe feeds straight into the evaporate coil. I mounted the small switch housing right on the side of the ATC plastic housing. I did cheat though and took the lid off of a atc housing i had on the shelf to see where id' be drilling too. The reason I wanted to stay with r12 is because it condenses down so much better in the oem condenser up front. The large 5 /16 or 3/8 tubes don't condense 134 down as well. Now a better condenser that comes with the upgraded sanden compressor would be fine since they have thin tubes. I found this out the hard way as I couldn't fully charge the system after getting the 3rd can of r12 in and the low suction side spiked to 80psi. I immediately knew the expansion valve had failed . So I changed it, re vac'd it down and used 134 as I had to go out of town with the car in 2 days and was out of virgin r12. The air works really good, but it doesn't get down to 38-42 degrees like it did before. Only about 50 with 134. I'll fix it right this next spring when I have time. Super busy with harvest season right now. No idea why I never got a notification till now of replies to this thread. Sorry
TxDon
Well-Known Member
So the EPR valve has wax inside it? How does that work to meter refrigerant flow?
SuicideDoorLincoln
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From my understanding per the book, its simply a pressure relief/bypass valve. I would have to go back and re read the page on it to fully explain it LOL
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