Wyatt convinced me to destroy my 71...

There will be time for smoke after the break in. The run to Carlisle will take care of that.
If time allows, I'd like to drop in the 3.23 sure grip before hitting the road.
As for the caravan, I'm not aware of anyone bailing out. It should be 4 to 6 cars. Are you considering making the trip this year? It would be cool to have more FCBO members join the caravan along the way.
 
Look's great. Rear bumper and valance look great. How many days till we smell smoke and burning paint. Have we lost anyone in the caravan of c bodies to Carlisle.
I may or may not have a car making the whole trip, yet to be determined.
 
If you're not driving one of your rides Scott, there will be plenty room for shotgun rider
 
There will be time for smoke after the break in. The run to Carlisle will take care of that.
If time allows, I'd like to drop in the 3.23 sure grip before hitting the road.
As for the caravan, I'm not aware of anyone bailing out. It should be 4 to 6 cars. Are you considering making the trip this year? It would be cool to have more FCBO members join the caravan along the way.
Tim, your New Yorker was a pretty low miles car as I recall (around 50K miles?), so I recall you had the pistons out and checked the bearing clearances etc, so did you need to do anything to the crank, or put in new bearings or even bore the block and put new pistons in or ?? I am just now sure how far you went with the short block itself. Did you replace the cam as well, and if so, what did you choose for the replacement?

p.s. if you discussed all of that before, please direct me to the page.

Thanks
 
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As mentioned a couple posts back, @Xenon has made the engine build experience for me, my favorite part of this build, and has made memories that'll last a lifetime.
Torqueing the connecting rods to FSM specs and installation of the cam went as planned, however the 3 ARP bolts for the cam from 440 Source required some needed finessing to the timing chain cover so they would no long rub. Once seeing where the marks were being made, after a few taps with a hammer, and refitted for clearance, the problem was solved.
I usually don't like being in these pics, but yeah that's me, gold chain & all..:poke:

That little plastic hammer sure packs a wallop!
It made the whole area shake when you were installing that timing gear!:lol:
can't imagine the vibration feedback you felt going up your arm!
All this caught on camera! Very cool!
eng-4-jpg.jpg
 
That little plastic hammer sure packs a wallop!
It made the whole area shake when you were installing that timing gear!:lol:
can't imagine the vibration feedback you felt going up your arm!
All this caught on camera! Very cool!
View attachment 382689

:rofl:

Lookin great Timmer!!! Coming together nicely. Just gotta get Xenon to work on his picture skillz. lol

We need to talk and start getting some details nailed down for the C-body caravan to Carlisle...:steering:
 
Did you replace the cam as well, and if so, what did you choose for the replacement?
After pulling the engine last November and finding small chunk's of plastic or some other type of material in the screen on the pick up tube, and also the condition of one of the connecting rod bearings, I didn't think I had any other choice but to do a complete rebuild.
The crankshaft was not machined, because I learned when these cars were built, the crankshafts received some type of specialize treatment or coating (I don't know what it's called) from the factory. If I were to machine the crankshaft, that coating would've been gone forever.
The journals did need some attention but not too much, so an Emory cloth was used to clean them up, by using 320, 400 & 600 grit, as seen in the pic below.
When @Xenon and I were setting the crankshaft oil clearance, it was set to 0.003 by test fitting the clearance two times, using Plastigage.
Crank stand 3.jpg

The machine shop that did the heads milled the base by 0.020, installed heilicoil's in the valve guides and did a valve grind to the valves & seats and then vacuum tested.
The block was hot tanked, and had new cam bearings as well as the tower shaft bushing installed.
The cylinder walls were not bored out, but were cleaned up using a ridge reamer and honing tool at my shop.
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 3 bolt cam # 145-1224 (440Source) was chosen for the build. New main bearings, connecting rod bearings, 3 bolt double roller timing chain # 102-1002, the Melling HV oil pump, and chrome molly push rods, Stealth cylinder head valve springs are some of the other parts that went into the engine build.
When this project is finished, I will name all the vendors that had been sourced to get this car to where it is today.
There are quite a few. My receipt folder is as thick as Gideon's Bible.
 
After pulling the engine last November and finding small chunk's of plastic or some other type of material in the screen on the pick up tube, and also the condition of one of the connecting rod bearings, I didn't think I had any other choice but to do a complete rebuild.
The crankshaft was not machined, because I learned when these cars were built, the crankshafts received some type of specialize treatment or coating (I don't know what it's called) from the factory. If I were to machine the crankshaft, that coating would've been gone forever.
The journals did need some attention but not too much, so an Emory cloth was used to clean them up, by using 320, 400 & 600 grit, as seen in the pic below.
When @Xenon and I were setting the crankshaft oil clearance, it was set to 0.003 by test fitting the clearance two times, using Plastigage.
View attachment 382724
The machine shop that did the heads milled the base by 0.020, installed heilicoil's in the valve guides and did a valve grind to the valves & seats and then vacuum tested.
The block was hot tanked, and had new cam bearings as well as the tower shaft bushing installed.
The cylinder walls were not bored out, but were cleaned up using a ridge reamer and honing tool at my shop.
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 3 bolt cam # 145-1224 (440Source) was chosen for the build. New main bearings, connecting rod bearings, 3 bolt double roller timing chain # 102-1002, the Melling HV oil pump, and chrome molly push rods, Stealth cylinder head valve springs are some of the other parts that went into the engine build.
When this project is finished, I will name all the vendors that had been sourced to get this car to where it is today.
There are quite a few. My receipt folder is as thick as Gideon's Bible.


Comp cams XE274H. 274/286 Duration. 230/236 @ .050 .488/.491 lift. 110 degree lobe separation.
 
I also went with a Comp Cam in my most recent 440 rebuild but I can't place my hands on the spec sheet at the moment. For my build, I wanted a smooth idle like factory but increased torque down low. It delivered in spades and I was really impressed with the performance improvement all across the performance range compared to stock. It did do a number to my fuel consumption, or maybe I just enjoyed driving it more heartily all over the range. :steering: My comparisons are to the 440HP original performance characteristics and not the standard 440 ones as well. Mine was a single bolt application but with dual roller chain (I don't do burnouts). :p

Thanks for the details Tim/Wyatt. Sounds like Xenon was the guy to rely on for good advice.

The plastic chunks are from the original factory timing chain sprocket and the crank journals are hardened.
 
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Today, the page was turned as the engine and trans went back into the New Yorker. Working with @Xenon makes doing this stuff seem easy, but it helps a lot when your working with a pro.
I've got my list to knock out for tomorrow, and if we stay on track, the engine will be primed on Thursday.
What a difference since last November....
NY engine pulled 11_2_19.jpg
Engine install 6_16b.jpg
Engine install 6_16d.jpg
Engine install 6_16g.jpg
 
Was it necessary to remove inner and/or outer fenders to drop the K-member? Need to refresh the engine in a 73' Imperial and wondering if best to pull from top or drop out bottom.
 
Tim, yes I will joined the caravan to Carlisle Pa. Scott pass seat is open as well in my car.
Was it necessary to remove inner and/or outer fenders to drop the K-member? Need to refresh the engine in a 73' Imperial and wondering if best to pull from top or drop out bottom.
 
T-N-T...It's Dynamite.

@sixpkrt & @Xenon have done a hell of a job on this car since I saw it last less then 2 weeks ago. I'm glad we have all been able to collaborate and pull this thing together. Shows what having like minded guys nearby can accomplish.

I'll just post a teaser, Tim will be posting pics soon.

20200618_205034.jpg
 
Shows what having like minded guys nearby can accomplish.
@71Polara383 Thanks Wyatt. As I always said, it's a hell of a lot more fun working on cars with other people. It keeps everyone motivated.
The last few days we all had a hand in moving the NYer closer to break-in the 440HP.
After the TTI was bolted back up onto the car Tuesday night, and then replacing the U-joints and soaking up more knowledge being provided by
@Xenon , the driveshaft went back in place.
TTI re install2.jpg
TTI re install1.jpg
driveshaft2.jpg
driveshaft1.jpg
 
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