Well, it was a teaser from Stanley - the one he showed expired a bit over 3 years ago. 
engine removal 101 questions for the newbie - try not to die
- Thread starter saylor
- Start date
65Fury440
Senior Member
Whenever you go to HF, just google HF coupon on your smart phone, and it will give you a current %20 off coupon, along with other current coupons.
It makes me mad how many times I did not use it.
Making some progress Saylor, good job!!
PS Those carb plates are scary.
PPS I think there will be some oven cleaner usage in your future.
It makes me mad how many times I did not use it.
Making some progress Saylor, good job!!
PS Those carb plates are scary.
PPS I think there will be some oven cleaner usage in your future.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Hey, saylor, you could take off the intake and use a chain stretched across the valley, if you don't want to use a lift plate on the carb. You work make the engine shorter, so to speak.
saylor
Senior Member
oldass exhaust flange bolt =1
air compressor = 0
. . . I gotta get more umph.
the $42 dolla air wrench from HFT is fun as hell tho everyone should get one.
ill pick up a 20gal compressor this week and try again. I may get a sawzall and cut the exhaust pipes off and keep moving forward.
I was gonna put dougs cutouts on anyways . . .
air compressor = 0
. . . I gotta get more umph.
the $42 dolla air wrench from HFT is fun as hell tho everyone should get one.
ill pick up a 20gal compressor this week and try again. I may get a sawzall and cut the exhaust pipes off and keep moving forward.
I was gonna put dougs cutouts on anyways . . .
traintech55
Senior Member
Get a Die grinder, and a cut off wheel.
And a bigger compressor... most of the air tools you are playing with eat LOTS of air. A 20 gal will still need to recover very often. A die grinder will empty it almost as fast as just plugging in an quick coupling fitting.
saylor
Senior Member
tonights task - pull a ujoint.
tools required:
1. with flathead screwdriver and firm hammer strike on either edge of the C, remove c clips from inner side of pressed-in joints. throw a towel under it to catch the clip from flying.
2.) place blocks of wood so the driveshaft is up off the ground - resting on the loose ujoints
3. with 1 1/8 socket, put that over the pressed in joint, and smack it. it will pop one of the caps out.
4. flop it over and do the other pressed in joint.
tools required:
1. with flathead screwdriver and firm hammer strike on either edge of the C, remove c clips from inner side of pressed-in joints. throw a towel under it to catch the clip from flying.
2.) place blocks of wood so the driveshaft is up off the ground - resting on the loose ujoints
3. with 1 1/8 socket, put that over the pressed in joint, and smack it. it will pop one of the caps out.
4. flop it over and do the other pressed in joint.
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saylor
Senior Member
I think u joints are cheap enough to replace, but what I read is if there is any wear on the joints, or if it does not spin well, trash it. I'm not planning on keeping this one so w/e, but I guess you can repack them and reuse them if not worn.
go buy new ujoints...
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I was a little disappointed when I first used an air tool with my 20gal compressor, it doesn't take long as you said. Went back to wrenching by hand cause I had to wait so long. But it was Free, Free, Free! So it works great! I'll get a larger one when I build a shed.
traintech55
Senior Member
When you reinstall the U joints be extremely careful not to let any of the needle bearings fall out of place. If the cap will not go on completely, or the joint does not move freely when installed, take it back apart and reinspect.
saylor
Senior Member
aaaaaannd . . .
saylor
Senior Member
this
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
One piece of advice : Make sure the trans mount is bolted to the trans BEFORE you re-install the cross member...or you WILL be removing it again. Been there, done that!
65Fury440
Senior Member
More photos please.
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
ya man, I hope you didnt die 
saylor
Senior Member
today i finished pulling the 383 out of the white fury and then we dropped the 440 in. motor mounts and crossmember went in, hood went on, and we called it a day. its 96* and the feels like temp out in the driveway is 6 gorillion.
one note on the crossmember R&R - i did choose to unload the torsion bars, as trying it under load felt like some of the crossmember bolts were under strain. on the flipside - trying to stab the new transmisssion in, it would never worked with load on the torsion bars nothing would have lined up. so undo the loads on the torsion bars before removing the transmission crossmember.
try not to die -
- saylor
one note on the crossmember R&R - i did choose to unload the torsion bars, as trying it under load felt like some of the crossmember bolts were under strain. on the flipside - trying to stab the new transmisssion in, it would never worked with load on the torsion bars nothing would have lined up. so undo the loads on the torsion bars before removing the transmission crossmember.
try not to die -
- saylor
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
He lives... 
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Good advise, explains why my crossmember was a bear to get lined up.
saylor
Senior Member
something I noticed and need - at the transmission on the side of the housing is a spot where a shift bar goes thru a hole - what is this piece? I needum. this one is toast.
