Jakes 383 rebuild
- Thread starter jake
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I just noticed that your shop has a genuine wood floor just as god intended. Nothing like wood underfoot.
Just sheets of 1/4 inch plywood around the workbenches. Softer on the body when you are standing there all day.
That's one good looking engine! I prefer the look with all the little color details over the whole in one color painted engine.
bulldogchesty
Senior Member
Man, that's looking good.
Well, for along time I have been pricing vacuum nipples with a 1/2 and 1/8 nipple port because I broke the 1/8 inch port off taking the heater control tubing off of it. I just could not bring myself to pay 50 bucks for a piece of aluminum. So I made my own.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Clever!
I have enjoyed watching the progress. I have saved this thread for future use. Great job.
Pete
New Member
Good job and some nice ideas
monaco75
Senior Member
Damn that looks great!! Must be chomping at the bit to get it in the car.
I am excited!
I would like to do tons of stuff to the engine bay but I want it on the road this summer, so I believe I will be pulling it next winter again.
On the agenda would be paint the engine bay, repipe the brakes, all new electrical. There is no way to match the engine bay to the metallic paint job of the car so I don't know what to do. I am putting on lokar throttle and kickdown cables, and hopefully rebuilding the universal ball and trunion on the driveshaft while the motor is out. Tranny has a leak somewhere that I need to find. A lot to do but I want it on the road this summer. I could use some help. I found this on moparts.com for engine break in. Anybody beg to differ or is this the best way to break in the new motor. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/22.html
On the agenda would be paint the engine bay, repipe the brakes, all new electrical. There is no way to match the engine bay to the metallic paint job of the car so I don't know what to do. I am putting on lokar throttle and kickdown cables, and hopefully rebuilding the universal ball and trunion on the driveshaft while the motor is out. Tranny has a leak somewhere that I need to find. A lot to do but I want it on the road this summer. I could use some help. I found this on moparts.com for engine break in. Anybody beg to differ or is this the best way to break in the new motor. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/22.html
Pete
New Member
Sounds good, can't miss anything going that way. Good luck with the first start up.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
That's all good advice, I would fill carburetor so you don't have to crank forever.
Alchemi
Member
At around step 5 ensure you lifters are rotating 
CanCritter
Senior Member
the difference between a journeyman and a shoemaker is 1/16th inch.......
Got the manifolds back from ceramic coating and looking to use gaskets. I know some do and some don't, but I would like to and was wondering if the metal side of the gasket faces the manifolds or not? I know they are not stock color but I like the look better this way.
yellowkeeble
Member
Will teh break in damage the ceramic coating on the exhaust manifolds? I bought some headers and the packaging specifically stated to not install until break in has taken place.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Makes sense but I would probably do nothing and cross my fingers.
I'm predicting a very smooth first start-up for Jake watching his process.
These are cast iron manifolds as gawd intended. Not crimped and tortured steel tubes.
I'm predicting a very smooth first start-up for Jake watching his process.
These are cast iron manifolds as gawd intended. Not crimped and tortured steel tubes.
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