commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Groaner. Big time
But you were saved by Fred's Groaner.
But you were saved by Fred's Groaner.
68Nwprt's Engine Build
- Thread starter 68Nwprt
- Start date
I think maybe you missed my point
I know what a groan-er is I was asking if it's a thing to post the hatchet man after someone posts a "groan-er"
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
It just means the joke was, oh...nevermind.
You're breaking my balls. Right?
You're breaking my balls. Right?
Big blubber
Senior Member
You have to be pulling my leg
Big blubber
Senior Member
I talked with a friend at work, who is helping me with this build, and he believes they are for balancing. A great guy who's been a tremendous help. Thanks Brian.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Only if you are twisting my nipples.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
Um.... how's anyone supposed to know what you're talking about when the post disappeared......
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Bryan's post immediately followed this post:
You figure out why Bryan deleted his post.
Try Boeshield T-9 really great stuff!
I would really be interested to hear what the engine conditions were when the cam/rod let go, (RPM, load, temp etc.) I have used a few Comps with no problem, used Racer Brown, Old Purple Shafts, Crane and GK in the day. considering a custom grind from bullet for current build but have two engines with Comps in them now with less than 1000k and it would be nice to know what to watch for.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Given 68plymouth383 and Moper both having good experiences with the XE268 and other Comp cams, you may not have anything to worry about. I bought a 76 440 dodge D150 truck with 1 wiped intake lobe and a second lobe nearing circular. Idle was rough and acceleration very poor because the engine was running on 6 cylinders. Vacuum gage reading had a sharp decreases when the 2 bad cylinders came into play. If your vacuum reading at idle is rock steady and your acceleration is good, you may be OK. Hope so, cam replace engine-in-chassis is a lot of work.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Funny, that's the only cam replacement I've done! After doing it twice, I could do it in my sleep. It definitely takes longer to take apart the front of the car than it does the engine and swap the cam. I'm glad for the experience I gained by doing it though.
I have a Comp 262 XE in a small block with a 10.1 CR. It runs strong and idles smoothly enough for what it is. I do have some question re vacuum as it seems to be a little low at idle 15-16", could just be getting the carb dialed in right and II really have not had any time to spend on it. I am running a tall intake with a spacer which I think is giving me some lower readings at idle (950 rpm) by 12- 1300 rpm vacuum is good at 20 to 22". I am going to adjust the timing some more and see if I cant get it a little better than it is.
I also have an issue with the timing being very erratic as per the timing light but the engine is steady and does not surge. I think I may have an issue with the timing light or possible cap/rotor or a spark plug wire. This is the only small block Mopar I have ever built and it tunes allittle differently than a Big Block.
Quick update. Last weekend I got the rear seal, cam and crankshaft installed, and put a coat of engine primer on the block. Got the pistons assembled during the week. Yesterday I installed the freeze plugs, pistons, and timing chain. Today the oil pan got sandblasted and a coat of engine primer. Next onto the lower rear seal , and oil pump.
Thanks. Hope it runs.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
Looking good. Thanks for the updates.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Did you have any machining done?
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